Toluca, State of Mexico

So, I'm on a Day of the Dead tour. I've already experienced and enjoyed some of the lead up to the Day of the Dead festivities, in the Southern States and Mexico City. Now we ( married couple, Sheena and Malcolm and Sheila a G.P., guide Yosa and driver Ivan) have arrived in Toluca and the days of the actual festival are fast approaching.

Toluca is roughly an hour’s drive west from the capital. The capital city of the State of Mexico, Toluca sits below the stunning Nevado de Toluca volcano and is higher than Mexico City, at 2600 metres. It is also windy, so  is considerably cooler. As is almost de rigeur, in a Spanish colonial city, there's an impressive cathedral.

Toluca is where the Alfeñique paste is produced, to make the sugar skulls and Catrinas. So, here they have an Alfeñique Festival. Just off the Zócalo (main square) are thronging rows of stalls, piled high with Day of the Dead confectionery. There are stacks of calaveras (skull sweets) in jelly, marshmallow and the snowy Alfeñique paste. We're supposed to have a sweet making workshop, but apparently it's been cancelled, at very short notice. I'm not unhappy. I'd rather look, and taste.

The Day of the Dead

Metepec and The Tree of Life

There's more confusion at nearby Metepec. This is another Pueblo Mágico, a town renowned for its pottery and we're supposed to be visiting the home of Heriberto Ortega, to see this local craftsman producing narrative clay sculpture (mostly Bible stories), especially the Tree of Life. The Arbol de la Vida is one of many proud Mexican symbols, telling the story of creation. And it seems appropriate to look at Life and Death together.

For some reason, we visit instead, a Tree of Life, in the centre of a pond, in a park in Metepec. After protests, we return again from Toluca (the traffic is no better here) to seek our potter out. Our trail leads us, via a log cabin market of pottery figures (Yosa's navigation ), but I eventually track Heriberto Ortega down, on the trusty internet. It's worth the hassle.

Seventy years old and now reduced to 400 metres in length from 2,000 metres this is a veritable wonderland of a workshop, every nook and cranny stuffed with clay figurines. There's a fabulous mural made of pottery fragments and leftovers. Nothing is wasted here. The sculptures are elaborate and time consuming to make, so, as you would expect, expensive. A small tree of life sculpture is £60 (Malcom buys one - I'm not sure how he's' going to get it home in one piece -it's very intricate). A large one costs thousands.

The Day of the Dead in Metepec

Metepec also offers a first look at family Day of the Dead altars, being set up in the street, at the bottom of Cerro del Calvario (Calvary Hill). In addition, gangs of workers are industriously producing enormous, gorgeous sloping carpets, made of marigolds and small coloured stones. below the church, which sits at the top.

As if that's not enough Metepec also boasts a historic centre  market hall, which has been beautifully transformed into a stained glass botanical garden, The Cosmovitral. The glass reflects creation myths, biblical and otherwise and there's a great Vitruvian Man (which probably accounts for the name).

Malinalco

Malinalco Archaeological Zone

Malinalco is the home of the Malinalco Archaeological Zone, an important Aztec ceremonial and military complex carved into the side of a hill called the Cerro de los Idolo. This is a dramatic, well-preserved fortress, literally hewn out of rock, with no fewer than five temple pyramids. The Cuauhcalli (House of the Eagles), is one of very few monolithic structures in the world. The entrance to the Cuauhcalli is sculpted to resemble the open jaws of an Earth Monster, complete with fangs and a forked tongue acting as a step. It housed those two most feared warrior classes of the Aztec army: the elite order of the Jaguar and Eagle. Their lofty perch has excellent views across the valley

It became an Augustinian monastery, before it was abandoned. Today, it's accessed by steep steps up a hillside (426), which, in its turn attracts multitudes of gorgeous butterflies (and biting insects).

Day of the Dead in Malinalco

Malinalco town is another 'Pueblo Mágico', known, during Day of the Dead, for the altars (ofrendas) to the recently deceased. Rooms (or marquees) are set, ceilings covered with flags and stepped memorials, offering photographs, foods, which the deceased liked, reminders of their life, flowers and assorted memorabilia. There are even skeleton models with their clothes/attributes superimposed. We take slender white votive candles as presents and these are lined up alongside those already burning. They light the way back home from the underworld. I'm surprised that tourists would be welcomed in to such a personal display, but the families seem genuinely pleased to see us, answering questions about their deceased loved ones and offering us presents for coming: boxes of candies, and the sweetDay of the Dead bread.

Cuernavaca, Morelos

It's a very winding road, through the mountains, on to Cuernavaca, now to the south west of Mexico City. Travel sick pills are called for. This is another city surrounded by volcanoes. Cuernavaca is the capital and largest city of the State of Morelos, in Mexico. This is one of the areas where Mesoamerican civilization originated; Olmec works of art were found near here.

The must see is the Palacio de Cortés. Dating back to 1535, this oddly Renaissance style building is one of the oldest European-style, civil constructions in the Americas. Some say it's modelled on the mansion built in Santo Domingo by Diego Christopher Columbus's son, Diego. This was the residence of Cortés and his descendants for several centuries, but after that, more ignominiously, a warehouse and a jail. Then, a military barracks, and more glory as the State Government Palace. Now, extensively restored, it's the state museum. The most interesting exhibit is the Diego Rivera murals, on the upstairs balcony, telling the story of Morelos history.

There is, of course, a cathedral, but Cuernavaca Cathedral was built by Cortés to double as a fortress, with cannons mounted above the buttresses. Opossums scavenge in the streets here. The tails of these large rodents are eaten, as a folk remedy, to improve fertility.

Also, on the tourist trail, The Borda Garden, just up the road from the cathedral. The house was owned by José de la Borda, a Taxco mining magnate, in the mid-eighteenth century. His family developed the gardens adding fountains and an artificial lake. Today, it's a tourist complex with a restaurant, and, more importantly, the grounds are bedecked with Day of the Dead altars and displays.

Ocotepec Cemetery

Just outside Cuernavaca, Ocotepec Cemetery is a great place to watch the preparations for the Day of the Dead. Graves and mausoleums are swept and repainted. Marigolds are arranged, with petals strewn on the ground, to signal the way for the souls. Music plays gently, and. at dusk, candles twinkle, whilst the work continues. Again, the people are happy to pose for pictures and to chat about their relatives, who have passed away, proudly pointing to all the family graves.

Taxco, Guerrero

Taxco is a further 90-minutes by road, from Cuernavaca. This charming silver mining town is a well known tourist destination, another Pueblo Mágico. It's famous for its cobbled streets and colonial architecture, but we're not really supposed to be here. It's on the FCDO Do Not Visit list, as is the whole of the State of Guerrero. Out tour company don't seem to have checked this out. Guide, Yosa says that Taxco was under the control of the cartels but is now back under government jurisdiction. Taxco can't survive economically without the the tourists who are the main source of revenue, now that mining has more or less ceased.

Taxco is pretty, but hilly (so steep streets), straddling the very top of a valley. It's a picturesque walk, to the Spanish baroque Santa Prisca church, which is already visible from a long distance. The church was financed by the same José de la Borda, who built the gardens in Cuernavaca. (His son, Manuel, was the priest.) So ostentatious was the church it nearly bankrupted him. Twin towers, a chapel decorated with the Spanish Talavera azulejos (tiles) and nine floor to ceiling intricate altarpieces, all covered in gold leaf.

Nearly every other shop in Taxco, sells silver. We're taken into one emporium 'to learn more about this metal', but the salesman doesn't even pretend to try and tell us anything. He just gestures at the various display cases (expensive stuff in here).

Xochicalco

Next, a short drive from Cuernavaca, lies Xochicalco. More pre-Columbian ruins, possibly built on top of the temple adopted by priests from Tenochtitlan. The apogee of Xochicalco came after the fall of Teotihuacan and it has been speculated that the two events are connected. The site was first occupied by 200 BC, but did not develop into an urban centre until AD 700 – 900. At its peak, the city may have had a population of up to 20,000 people.

As with most Mesoamerican sites, the main ceremonial centre sits atop an artificially levelled hill. There's plenty as yet unexcavated, with remains of residential structures, on long terraces, covering the slopes.

The highlight, as far as the archaeologists are concerned, is a an ancient observatory, where the Aztec priests decided upon the exact timing of the summer and winter solstice. But it's closed. The other building of interest is (as always) The Temple of the Feathered Serpent. This one has some well preserved bas reliefs, with fine stylized depictions of that deity. Otherwise, there are the usual assortment of step-pyramid temples, palaces, ballcourts, and altars (unusual circular ones).

Huaquechula and a Surprise Day of the Dead Parade

Our itinerary says that we are going to Huaquechula village to 'spy monumental altars on multi-storey pyramids'. These altars are typically three levels high, representing Earth, Heaven, and the Heavenly Cusp (marked by a crucifix). They are primarily white, adorned with satin, candles, and specific regional items, like the unique pretzel-shaped 'huesos' bread. A mirror is often placed at the centre, to reflect the face of the deceased.

Yosa seems to have trouble tracking the altars down, even though it's a nationally advertised event. (When it's too late I find an online map marking them all.) But a marigold petal trail leads us to one, at the main church. The little town, is crowded, the car parks full. The streets are lined with stalls, selling foodstuffs: quesadillas, sweets. There's also some bartering as folk swap items for their altars.

And, it turns out, there's also a procession. It's a surprise to our guide and a very welcome surprise to us. And to be fair, it doesn't seem to be mentioned anywhere on the Internet. The focus is all on those altars. Short and sweet would describe the parade very well. Nearly everyone is masked, the costumes gorgeous. Skulls are conspicuously absent on the march, but still feature prominently around the town, on Catrinas. Watch a little of it here. Malcolm manages to edge into the picture, you can see him realise.

Puebla, State and City

 The city of Puebla was founded, in 1531, to serve the trade route between Veracruz and Mexico City. It has outgrown its purpose today, bypassed by highways and surrounded by industry. Many manufacturing companies have moved out of the capital and settled here, instead. There's a huge Volkswagen factory churning out Beetles and Audi have followed. This is the site of the Battle of Puebla of May 5th fame. Puebla developed, to form its own province under the Spanish and became a state after the Mexican War of Independence.

Puebla is considered to be the 'cradle of Mexican Baroque' and they've been very liberal here, with the Talavera tiles. As you would expect from one of Mexico’s great colonial towns, a huge Zócalo. Around its edge, arcaded shops and City Hall, the Casa de los Muñecos (the locals call this tiled building The Dollshouse) and the beautiful cathedral (inside). It's 70 metre twin towers made it the tallest church in the Spanish Empire for some time. It's also known for its cipres, the canopy over the high altar, which is detached from the rest of the building.

Exploring Puebla

Walking the side streets, around the centre, involves navigating countless market stalls and there are official market areas too. And, naturally, many more churches.  The Santo Domingo Church seems to follow the pattern of all the temples associated with this order: a plain exterior and a remarkably ornate interior.

Tiles also adorn the Palace of Culture, which was once the Colegio de San Juan, part of an old seminary building. Upstairs, is The Biblioteca Palafoxiana. Founded in 1646, this is the oldest public library in the Americas. It was begun with 5,000 books donated but its founder, Juan de Palafox y Mendoza, the Bishop of Puebla. It moved to these premises a hundred years later, augmented by donations from other bishops. Today, its cedar shelves hold 45,000 books and manuscripts, ranging from the fifteenth to the twentieth century and the library is still open to anyone who wishes to study.

There's a long queue of people, out onto the street, on the ground floor; they're not eager scholars, but folk wanting to see the ofrendas displayed in the atrium and up the stairs.

Further out, is the Museo Regional de la Revolución Mexicana. This whitewashed building was the home of the Serdán family and the site of the first armed conflict of the Mexican Revolution on November 18, 1910.  It happened when government forces (under President Porfirio Díaz) came to check for arms and the two Serdan bothers died, defending the house, regarded as martyrs. The façade of the building is peppered with bullet holes.

Forts Loreto and Guadalupe

On the outskirts of the city, are the twin forts Loreto and Guadalupe, the site of the infamous Battle of Puebla, against the French. They are not especially photogenic, on their own, long and thin, but the area around has been transformed into a park, with panoramas across the city. It's a favourite spot for fifteen year old Mexican girls to pose in their hooped ball gowns, as they celebrate their 'quinceañera', or transition to young womanhood.

Day of the Dead (Maybe), in Puebla

Now for more confusion. The city is decorated to the nines and our itinerary promises that we will 'join in with the festivities' tonight. This is Day One of the main festival - the night dedicated to children. 'What festivities?' I ask Yosa. He looks perplexed. After some pondering, he announces that there is a light show at the cathedral, at six pm. It's now ten to, so we rush along to the Zócalo, which is packed. There are barriers and crowds five deep, behind them. There is clearly going to be a parade. And there is, though I can see very little, stuck behind all these people. No light show visible. but then I can't see much of anything anyway. When it's finished crowds, surge and I try and fight my way back to the hotel. They've erected more barriers and I narrowly escape being crushed.

I order dinner and am waiting for my food to arrive, when there's a text message from Yosa. There's another parade on; he's watching it from the Zócalo; it's very good. No way I can get back thought those crowds. And my dinner is coming. I check the internet for information about lightshows. At the cathedral, the other side of the Zócalo, every half hour, from 7pm to 8.30 pm, apparently. It doesn't improve my mood.

The Great Pyramid of Cholula

Four miles west of Puebla, the Great Pyramid of Cholula is the largest pyramid in the world by volume (and the largest single ancient monument ever constructed in the world), at over 4.45 million cubic metres, (take that Great Pyramid of Giza). It's not wildly impressive, squat, with a vast base, looking, for all the world, like a natural hill, topped by a sixteenth-century Spanish church. But, inside this hill, is layer upon layer of constructions, made by different pre-Columbian civilisations. They've uncovered some of them, around the base, and part of a huge warren of tunnels. The first construction began around the third century BC. This was a major religious centre, traditionally viewed as dedicated to the god Quetzalcoatl.(Who else?) Nothing is certain, but construction is thought to have occurred in six major phases, with possible contributions from the Olmecs, Toltecs, and Cholutecs.

There's a service in the church shortly and it is being signalled by firecrackers, making us start, and zooming across the sky, a cloud of white birds. Stalls are being set up and there are costumed dancers. The finale to Day of the Dead, is underway.

Atlixco and the Day of the Dead Parade

As today, is the culmination of the Day of the Dead Festival, we're promised a Calaveras (skulls) Parade, in nearby Atlixco, (yet another Pueblo Mágico). We're told we will be able to see better there, than in Puebla. Yosa alarms me again by suggesting he book a table in a restaurant. He's obviously not into forward planning.But, we do manage to secure front row seats, on the kerb. Then I notice folk renting chairs, so I dispatch Yosa to fetch some of those for us, and now all is well. Costumed revellers, marching Mariachis, multiplicities of majorettes and bedazzling marionettes (in the form of creepy Catrinas) sway past, for well over an hour. It's a fitting climax.

It's a great way to finish a wonderful month. Mexico is now one of my favourite countries .................. those northern states are waiting.

Mexico - Facts and Factoids

• Estados Unidos Mexicanos (United Mexican States), is the official name of Mexico.
• Mexico is often known as El Tricolore, because of its three coloured (red, green and white) flag.
• Mexico is one of the world's 17 megadiverse countries, ranking fifth in natural biodiversity.
• Mexico has 32 UNESCO world heritage sites (first in the Americas and seventh in the world).
• This is the northernmost country in Latin America.
• There are more Spanish speakers here, than in any other country.
• Mexico is a federal republic, with a presidential system of government' The federal legislature consists of the Congress of the Union, comprising the democratically elected Chamber of Deputies, which represents the population, and the Senate, which provides equal representation for each state. Mexico's federal structure grants autonomy to its 32 states, and its political system is influenced by both indigenous traditions and European ideals.

• Mexico has coasts on both the Atlantic/Caribbean and Pacific oceans. The longest river is the Rio Grande, forming a natural eastern border with the United States.
• Mexico is volcanic and most of the Mexican central and northern territories are high altitude. Two mountain ranges, the Sierra Madre Oriental and Sierra Madre Occidental, are extensions of the Rocky Mountains, from North America.
• Every year, millions of monarch butterflies migrate from the U.S.A. and Canada to Mexico. (I would love to see this - it's described in Barbara Kingsolver's novel Flight Behaviour).

Mexico - A Very Brief History

• Mesoamerica was one of six cradles of civilization worldwide, with the first inhabitants settling over 13,000 years ago
• The Mesoamerican area gave rise to a series of cultural developments which included complex societies, agriculture, cities, monumental architecture, writing, and calendrical systems. Agriculture was developing here by 6,000 B.C.
• The development of civilisations in Mexico was complicated:
  • Pre Classic Period: The earliest complex civilization in Mexico was the Olmec culture, which flourished on the Gulf Coast, from around 1500 BC. The Maya and Zapotec civilizations developed further complex centres at Calakmul and Monte Albán, respectively. The Mixtec culture began to develop farming settlements in the mountainous region between the current Mexican states of Puebla, Oaxaca, and Guerrero.

• Classic period (roughly 200–900 AD): saw the further development of the Mayans and the ascendancy of Teotihuacán, a military and commercial empire, in Central Mexico. Teotihuacán, with a population of more than 150,000 people, built some of the largest pyramidal structures in the pre-Columbian Americas. The Teotihuacán Empire collapsed, around 600 AD
• Early Post-classic Era (1000–1519 AD) saw the Toltecs migrate into the central valley of Mexico and establish their capital at Tula around the 10th century. A revitalized Maya developed in the northern Yucatan, with major cities like Chichén Itzá and Uxmal. This was the height of the Mixtec civilization. And the Aztecs (Mexica) arrived in the Valley of Mexico and founded the city of Tenochtitlán in 1325. They become the dominant force in central Mexico by the 1420s, establishing a political and economic empire based in the city of Tenochtitlan (modern Mexico City), which extended from central Mexico to the border with Guatemala. Mēxihco is the Nahuatl term for the heartland of the Aztec Empire, namely the Valley of Mexico and surrounding territories, with its people being known as the Mexica. was dominated, by the Mixtec in Oaxaca, and the Mayans area at Chichén Itzá and Mayapán. Toward the end of the post-Classic period, the Aztecs (or Mexica) established dominance,
• The Spanish conquest of the Aztec Empire began in February 1519, when Hernán Cortés founded the Spanish city of Veracruz. In 1521 the Spanish captured Tenochtitlan and founded their capital, Mexico City, on its ruins. This was the beginning of a 300-year-long colonial era, during which Mexico was known as Nueva España (New Spain).
• New Spain became a major centre of the transoceanic economy, during the Age of Discovery, fuelled by silver mining (there were vast deposits) and its position, as a hub between Europe and Asia. This gave rise to one of the largest multiracial populations in the world.

• Chocolate, chillies and corn were introduced to the world from Mexico.
• Napoleon's'' invasion of Spain, in The Peninsular War, led to the 1810–1821 Mexican War of Independence, as the Mexicans took advantage of European unrest
• The First Mexican Empire quickly collapsed into the short-lived First Mexican Republic. In 1848, Mexico lost nearly half its territory to an American invasion.
• Civil war, followed by French intervention, culminated in the establishment of the Second Mexican Empire under Emperor Maximilian I of Austria, but he was overthrown by Republican forces, led by Benito Juárez.
• The late nineteenth century saw the long dictatorship of Porfirio Díaz, whose modernization policies came at the cost of severe social unrest. the 1910–1920 Mexican Revolution led to him being overthrown Díaz.
• Rapid industrialization and economic growth have sat alongside ongoing political unrest. Despite high levels of poverty (30%) Mexico's economy continues to grow rapidly and is projected to become one of the largest in the world.

Is Mexico Safe to Visit?

Most visitors to Mexico have no problem. Travellers report that most of the violence (and there undoubtedly is some) is between cartels. But poverty levels remain high and the FCO list a daunting list of possible issues. It's essential to exercise caution, take advice from the locals and stay alert.

Issues include:

• Terrorism and kidnapping - avoid crowded places and public gatherings in large Mexican cities.
• Gang violence.
• Protests and civil unrest - ditto. It's illegal to participate in political activities as as a foreigner.
• Road blocks set up by cartels and areas controlled by cartels. Take local advice and stay away. Acapulco is sadly, no longer a good idea.
• Street crime is common in cities and tourist areas. Hide your phone and camera. Don't wear valuables. Watch your luggage and belongings, even in hotels and on public transport.

• Take care withdrawing money from ATMs or using exchange offices (bureau de change). Criminals have targeted people using these services. It’s generally safer to use ATMs during daylight hours inside shops or malls. Avoid withdrawing large amounts and watch who is around you while you are at an ATM.
• Be wary of criminals posing as police officers and trying to fine or arrest you for no reason. They have targeted travellers driving rental cars. Also, be wary of genuine police officers extorting money from tourists for alleged minor offences or traffic violations. Uber and Didi services are deemed safe. But Uber is banned in many cities and I couldn't get Didi to download on my British registered phone, even with a Mexican e-sim.
• Unlicensed taxi drivers have robbed and assaulted passengers, including in Mexico City. Use the better regulated ‘sitio’ taxis from authorised taxi ranks or ask your hotel to order you a taxi. At airports, only use authorised pre-paid airport taxi services.

Remember, most travellers encounter no problems and have a great time!

What Can I See and Do in Mexico?

Mexico is a diverse and absorbing country. Read about what I did here:

• The Yucatan
• The Southern States
• Mexico City
• The Day of the Dead Festival