The Azores

The question I've most often been asked, about this trip, is where and what are the Azores? This is an archipelago, which belongs to Portugal. There are nine major Azorean islands and an islet cluster, in three main groups. These are Flores and Corvo, to the west; Graciosa, Terceira, São Jorge, Pico, and Faial in the centre; and São Miguel, Santa Maria, and the Formigas islets to the east. They extend for more than 370 miles. Sadly, I’m not visiting westerly Flores, despite being captivated by Tennyson's poem when I was a child:  The Revenge: A Ballad of the Fleet

‘At Flores, in the Azores Sir Richard Grenville lay,

And a pinnace, like a flutter'd bird, came flying from far away…….’

But I'm promised dramatic volcanic landscapes, fishing villages, green pastures and hedgerows of blue hydrangeas. And I’m on a group tour. We’re starting in easterly Sao Miguel and working our way west, to central Terceira, Pico and Faial. The largest city of the Azores is Ponta Delgada. And this is where we land, after flying via Lisbon. It’s one of my more unnerving landings. The plane wings  over the main caldera and then alongside the sheerest of cliffs and gleaming water, sprinkled with stacks. It wobbles crazily, appearing to almost graze the rock, before it hits the runway on top of them, very hard. Apparently, it’s worse in winter.

 There are nine of us, plus guide George and driver Federico. And a huge tour coach.

Facts and Factoids

• The Azores is one of the two autonomous regions of Portugal (the other is Madeira).
• It is an archipelago,composed of nine volcanic islands, in the Macaronesia region of the North Atlantic Ocean, about 870 miles  west of Lisbon.
• Macaronesia, in its turn, is a collection of four volcanic archipelagos, in the North Atlantic Ocean, off the coast of North Africa and Europe: The Azores, Madeira, The Canary Islands and Cape Verde. Politically, the Spanish and Portuguese islands of Macaronesia are in the EU. Geologically, most of Macaronesia is part of the African tectonic plate. The Azores, however, are located in the triple junction between the African, Eurasian, and North American plates. That explains the volcanic activity. The name Macaronesia (from the Greek words meaning 'islands of the fortunate' ) was originally used by ancient Greek geographers, to refer to any islands west of the Strait of Gibraltar.

• Because of their volcanic origins the Azores are sometimes dubbed the Hawaii of Europe.
• Main industries in The Azores are agriculture, dairy farming lots of different cheeses , livestock, fishing, and tourism, which has become increasingly important.
• Although it is commonly said that the archipelago received its name from açor (Portuguese for goshawk, a common bird at the time of discovery) it is unlikely that the bird ever nested or hunted on the islands. Guide Paulo, in Terceira, says the word means buzzards, which are sometimes seen. He prefers an azure blue sea explanation.
• Ponta Delgada, on Sao Miguel, became the region's administrative capital under the revised constitution of 1976; the judiciary and Catholic See remained in the historical capital of Angra do Heroísmo, on Terceira, while the Legislative Assembly of the Azores was established in Horta, on Faial. So everything is nicely spread out.

São Miguel, The Green Island

Ponta Delgado

Ponta Delgado means Thin Point, after the rocky promontory where the settlement was established in the fifteenth century. And the capital is a surprising place. I had expected a rural idyll. Instead, I’m finding a historic city centre, with remarkable churches, convents and a cathedral, all distinctively built from basalt rock and white plaster. An imposing plaza with three arched gates. More grand squares, monuments and winding alleys, full of boutiques and restaurants. A large buzzing  harbour, with a huge fortress. Mosaic pavements, again created from the  black volcanic rock and shining white limestone. These are the Portuguese calcadas. Even some of the roads are cobbled with basalt (well there's plenty of it around on these volcanic islands).  It’s all very sophisticated and tourist friendly. Except for the large groups of tourists being marched about. I think they’re mainly off the cruise ships.

The islands are very religious and Catholicism is strong. The show windows are full of religious icons and figurines of assorted shapes and sizes. The highlight is a naked plastic baby Jesus, on a red tasselled cushion. Ponta Delgado comes alive at night, when all the significant buildings are illuminated and a rock band performs behind the three gates. Fish is the order of the day, for supper. A harbourside restaurant serves deliciously tender squid. And cocktails in an avant garde bar, followed by a triggerfish dinner in in an up-market restaurant, on one of the little side streets is very pleasant.

São Miguel - Azores Verde

All of the islands have volcanic origins, although some, thankfully, such as Santa Maria, have had no recorded activity, in the time since the islands were settled, several centuries ago. They’ve also all been designated a colour. San Miguel is The Green Island. Ilha Verde. For obvious reasons. I’ve already experienced the wind, but the weather here really does turn on a sixpence.  There’s plenty of rain.  It’s humid and I’ve already had drizzle, cloud and sun alternating all afternoon. And a rainbow.

Nevertheless, the climate of the Azores is very mild for such a northerly location, far away from any land masses and buffeted  by the  Gulf Stream. All the water keeps  the temperatures  mild year-round. Daytime temperatures normally fluctuate between 16 and 25 °Celsius. I’m at the top end today, weather-wise.

And exploration is, of course, driven by the weather.  Today, our huge tour bus has been compressed into a minibus, with less leg room than EasyJet. But it’s probably  easier on the twisty mountain roads. Those are lined with the famous hydrangea hedges, though sadly most of the flowering is over. They were introduced from Japan and form most of the glorious blue boundaries, on the islands. There are still slopes scattered with the yellow ginger, although that's viewed more as an invasive nuisance.

Otherwise,  the landscape is littered with green patchwork covered volcanic cones, most of them smothered in cloud. And it's pelting with rain so we’re going to leave our view seeking until later. The power is geothermal and there are puffs of smoke from the vents adorning the cones.  Through the slender central section along the north coast ( pretty views of coastal plateau and the sheer layered cliffs) and a tea plantation visit, at Gorreana. It’s not as imposing or dramatic as some in Malaysia, for example, but there are some rolling bushes and an interesting exhibition explaining the leaf treatment processes for both green and black tea. And banks of violet morning glory.

Furnas

 Then south to Furnas. This is a literal hotbed of geothermal activity.  

San Miguel is bursting with botanic gardens and the one here has plenty of exotic plants, including a grotto, with mini waterfall, an impressive bromeliad garden and a pond with baby moorhens. But the main attraction is the thermal bathing pools. If you don’t mind the heat (enough to make some go giddy) and getting orange stains on your swimwear.

There are calderas galore. One with a lake, plenty of steam vents and some bubbling geysers, in the centre of town.  The local restaurants capitalise on the tourist interest and save energy (most of the island runs on geothermal power) by serving cozido – stew baked in hotpot crocks, in fumaroles - on the edge  of the thermal lake. The stew is comprised of layers of pork, beef, chicken, sausages, potatoes, carrots, cabbage, and kale. There’s heaps of food, but not everyone enjoys it. The sausage is super spicy and the vegetables extremely salty.

Lagoa do Fogo

The weather continues to play fast and loose with us. But we eventually  manage a view across Lagoa do Fogo  ( Fire Lake) in the afternoon and a panorama from the highest point on the island, across to  its 67 or so volcanic peaks.

Setes Cidadas - Almost

The next day sees us at a family owned pineapple plantation, at Faja de Beixo. As it's not tropical here, they are grown in a hothouse.  Some of the group are surprised to see these members of the bromeliad family bursting from the ground and tethered, to keep them upright. They thought pineapples grew on trees. There’s a shop with pineapple liqueur and gaudy earrings and the usual tour buses.

Then west, to Setes CidHeroisadas (Seven Cities). This for me, was going to be the highlight of the visit. It's the stunning scene shown on all the tourism advertising. A double volcanic lake, above another lagoon, in the centre of a huge caldera (a caldera is more than a mile wide, otherwise it’s a crater ) and the most active volcano in the archipelago. The Sete Cidades Massif has experienced some 17 intra-caldera eruptions within the last 5000 years. But clouds are looming again. And, much to my chagrin, there are no views to be had, from up above. Jorge insists that the rainbows are due compensation. (You can see my photo from a PR video below, next to reality.)

Down in the caldera, there are views of the steep walls, diving down to the bridge divided water,  interspersed with drizzle. The itinerary says we’re going for a leisurely stroll alongside the lake. But instead Jorge takes us into a church. St Igreja de São Nicolau is accessed via an imposing avenue of tall pines; inside Jorge performs on his hand pan. (It seems that Jorge has fingers in lots of pies.) It's a peaceful and melodic rendition. (You can watch it here.) And no one complains vociferously. It’s still raining.

Back along the northern coast of San Miguel. It's sweeping vistas the whole way, with stacks and rock formations and a bendy nausea inducing road, to showcase it. There’s an 'elephant rock', reminiscent of the one in Saudi Arabia at Al Ula.

There’s also a bizarre ethnographic museum, at Capelas. A winding labyrinth of bazaar style booths showcasing collections, shops, a school room  and even a chapel, is hidden behind a deceptively tiny entrance. Two women paint the figurines which adorn many of the exhibits. Eclectic is definitely the word.

Next day, Jorge is a no-show to take us to the airport. He was going to a baptism celebration and had intimated it might be a long night. At least it saves me his tip money.

A Brief History of the Azores

• The culture, dialect, cuisine, and traditions of the Azorean islands are surprisingly different, because these remote islands were settled sporadically, over a span of two centuries.
• The islands were known to Europeans in the 14th century; parts of them appear in the Catalan Atlas, created in 1375. But the origin of their actual discovery are unclear. A captain sailing for Prince Henry the Navigator, possibly Gonçalo Velho, in 1427 is credited, but so is a Fleming, Joshua Vander Berg of Bruges.
• The islands had fertile soil and were deemed ripe for settlement by the Portuguese. Although there were no minerals discovered Santa Maria was settled first - there were no large animals on Santa Maria; after its discovery and before settlement began, sheep were let loose on the island to supply future settlers with food. The main crops were wheat and oranges, but the oranges were wiped out by blight.
• The islands were an ideal stopping place for cross Atlantic sailing boats, although steam made them less attractive. (Later, before jets were developed for flying longer  distances the Azores served as a  refuelling point for aircraft flying between Europe and North America.)
• Settlers were not always keen. The islands had a history of volcanic eruption, but some 2000 Flemish peoples arrived, spurred on by the 100 Years War at home, and bringing their windmills. cheese making skills and dry stone wall construction.
• Along with mainland Portugal, the Azores were ruled by by Spain (the House of Habsburg), from 1580 to 1640, although the Azoreans resisted strongly.
• The islands of the Azores were very poor, until Portugal joined the EU  and money flowed in.

Terceira, the Lilac Island

Terceira was the third of the islands to be discovered, hence the name. Maybe. It's also named The Lilac Island, for its flowers, though I only saw one patch of those. (There were plenty of other kinds.) And arrived at on a too early morning flight. The programme says we are to be met by a Miguel, but it’s Elizabeth who is greeting us, when we land. Our guide says 16,000 people and two cows for each person, but Wikipedia says it is one of the larger islands of the archipelago, with a population of 53,311 inhabitants. Take your pick.

Angra do Heroísmo

The guides are certainly passionate about their island and the importance of its capital city. Angra do Heroísmo, is the historical capital of the archipelago and a UNESCO World Heritage Site; the seat of the judicial system (Supreme Court) and the Bishop of the Azores. It is home to the main insular Portuguese Air Force base, Base Aérea nº 4, at Lajes, with a United States Air Force detachment on the British built airport (during World War II, when Portugal wasn't entirely neutral). That's where we've landed. This area used to be the island's breadbasket.

Historical Angra do Heroísmo

We have a hotel in a prime spot, on the main square, in this fascinating city. Angra has played an important role in Portuguese history. António, Prior of Crato, attempted to rule Portugal from here, after he tried to claim the throne, when it went to the Spanish monarchy. He was defeated by Philip II of Spain's armies, on the mainland, in 1580. Although for a time he was the king, (minting coin and conferring titles), his government, on Terceira, was only recognized in the Azores. He won the locals over, as they defended him vigorously when the Spanish tried to land in 1581. A thousand head of cattle were unleashed and they drove the invaders into the sea. Sadly, they succumbed to the Castilians, in 1583, at the Battle of Terceira, but The Pretender had already fled.

Philip occupied the Azores, completing his unification of the Crowns of Spain and Portugal. England had supported Antonio in battle and the English threat was thought to be a grave one (the Armada followed), so the Portuguese fort, on the hill called Monte Brasil, was reinforced and expanded. The Spanish used it to good effect, resisting the Portuguese restoration, until 1642. There are great views from up here, across the town. (British guns were added to the hill, when the airport was built.)

The House of Braganza then took on the Portuguese monarchy, but the second king of that line, Dom Afonso VI, had suffered a paralysis, at the age of three, which was believed to have also affected his mental faculties. He became king, with his mother Luisa, as regent. Afonso managed to retire her, to a convent, but in 1668, his brother, Pedro II,conspired to have him declared incapable of ruling (Afonso had favourites and was considered wild and irresponsible), and Pedro took over as regent. Then Pedro married Maria Francisca, Afonso's wife (she obtained an annulment, on the grounds of impotence). Afonso spent the rest of his life and reign practically a prisoner. He was exiled to Terceira, for seven years; his statue, resplendent, in a huge hat, also looks down on Angra, from Monte Brasil.

When the liberal King João VI died, in 1826, Portugal was again plunged into a succession crisis. Both the king's sons, Emperor Pedro of Brazil, and the younger Miguel had already rebelled against their father and many Portuguese no longer wanted to be unified with their colony, Brazil. So, Pedro abdicated the Portuguese throne, in favour of his seven-year-old daughter Maria da Glória, on condition that she later marry her uncle, Miguel.

But Miguel was not keen on liberal rule and was more interested in an absolutist monarchy; he quickly deposed his niece. Thus began the Liberal Wars, with the Liberals (Pedro and Maria) establishing a base at Angra. The Battle of Praia da Vitória, on August 11, 1829, saw the Terceirans repulse a Miguelist attack. Maria da Glória resided on the island from 1830 to 1833 and became Queen Maria II. There's a yellow ochre monument to Dom Pedro, at the site of the first fortress, behind Angra.

Angra  de Heroismo - Bay of Heroes - was so named because, according to the guide, it was defended against  invaders countless times. According to Wikipedia, the epithet was granted to the city by Maria, to commemorate its citizens' successful defence of the island. The other main town on the island was renamed Praia da Vitória, also to commemorate this victory.

Exploring Angra do Heroísmo

It's clear that some of the quaint red tiled roofs here are much older than others. Angra was hit by a major earthquake, on 1 January 1980, which did considerable damage to the city's historic centre (and to many other parts of the island of Terceira). The damage in the city was repaired and rebuilt within four years. There's another good viewpoint also, back across the city, from the first fortress on the island, built in 1474. And a third, possibly the most pleasant, from the rooftop bar, on our hotel. There are a whole series of cultural events taking place, on this holiday weekend. The highlight is the demonstrations of stick fighting. (Watch here.) The low point is loud music late into the evening, though it's terminated by a downpour. Rain has its uses.

 The pink and white cathedral, of the Holy Saviour was built in 1496, as a church and adorned with twin spires. The visit of John Paul II is commemorated with a  statue outside the cathedral and the airport is named after him.  He’s the only pope to have been here, to this fervently religious territory. There are nine convents/monasteries showcasing all the New World gold and silver,.

Next up, the botanic gardens with a lower French section and an upper English garden. I’m unsure how the distinction has been made, as both are full of sub tropical blooms that wouldn’t do well in Northern  Europe. The French garden is almost gaudy, with a very pink bandstand and scarlet railings. Our hotel is cunningly built alongside, so we can view the garden, as we eat breakfast.

The City Museum here isn’t quite as eclectic as the last one, in Sao Miguel, but the attached church has a fountain in a courtyard and an assortment of rooms, with exhibits ranging from archaeological findings, to carriages and cannons. And there's a modern art gallery too.

Angra also has a bullfighting ring and a memorial to bullfighting. Bullfighting is big in Terceira, a legacy of the Spanish. They have bullfights and bull running ('touradas à corda') here (in a similar fashion to Pamplona), in many of the villages. The festivities are celebrated with flags and banquets. The guide stresses that the bulls are not killed, just 'played with'. 'I’m still not impressed. I'm surprised to come across the incredible dragonblood trees. I thought they were endemic to Socotra, but it seems there's another variety in the Canaries and they have been introduced here.

Pastry tasting turns out to be tarts, with potato in sticky syrup and ground almond in them, in a small coffee shop. The Azores, and Terceira in particular, are famous for cakes. In the early twentieth century, King Carlos visited, with his wife Dona Amelia, and sundry cookies and cupcakes are named after her. Dona Amelia's portrait adorns several bakery windows.

Round Terceira

Miguel has metamorphosed into Paolo today. He is even more passionate about Terceira than Elizabeth. He makes a point of telling me I don't need to wear my seat belt before we set off. The Portuguese version of Vamos is pronounced Vamoosh.

Terceira is divided into its two cities with 19 and 11 parishes respectively. Praia da Vitoria is the smaller one and the newest town in the Azores. There are plenty of vineyards and fish, bananas, flowers and honey are the main exports now, replacing the blight infected oranges.

There's more spectacular coastal scenery, and a viewpoint over Goat Island; it's actually two islets, another ancient volcano. We're on our way to Sao Sebastiao, the oldest village on Terceira, where the first settlers came. It had plenty of water and all the houses had wells. The old church here has a hexagonal pyramid topped bell tower and some old semi restored frescoes. Opposite, there's a cute chapel and a typical square.

There are 70 or so brightly decorated chapels on the island, dedicated to the Holy Ghost. They come into their own during the feast of Pentecost, when the church here has an eight week celebration, after Easter; there are 70 Holy Spirit chapels in all,  tiny and brightly decorated. Lots are cast to see who will host the celebrations each week and one lucky recipient is crowned, prayed for and brought gifts on each of the eight Sundays.

Praia da Vitória

It’s deathly quiet on a Sunday morning, in Praia da Vitoria, but the streets with the painted houses and little chapels are suitably picturesque. It's a pleasant little town. We finish at another viewpoint, with a statue of the Madonna benevolently looking down over the bay and the best beach on the island. It's volcanic sand, of course.

Then, we stroll alongside the ocean, the foam tipped turquoise sea contrasting beautifully with the black lava pinnacles.

The Algar do Carvão Cave

More viewpoints, across patchwork fields and mini cones. Then north, to caves that that are not caverns, but a volcanic pipe. The Algar do Carvão is the caldera 'geyser' of the Guilherme Moniz volcano. There are steps leading down (and then up again) to a cathedral cave (a few stalactites and stalagmites), a clammy interior, with cascades of water droplets descending, and some atmospheric greenery, emerald moss and ferns; it's almost Jurassic. A staircase leading down takes you to a small photogenic lake.

Biscoitas

Finally, swimming, in some of the natural lagoons created by the lava flows. All of the islands, short on beaches, have developed access to the sea, by adding strategic ladders and platforms for sunbathing. Biscoitas has a large complex, with changing rooms and a plethora of tidal pools. Those are a little too exciting when the current carries you close to the submerged rocks. But the bathing is refreshing, and welcome, after a relatively sunny day.

Another day, another island. The lock on my case has jammed and I can't open it or close it properly. I'm hoping security at the airport might assist with one of their TSA keys. but the grumpy check in clerk isn't in a cooperative mood. 'Security are down stairs', he says. 'Are you going to check in or not?' So, piqued, I'm off to Pico.

Pico, the Grey Island - Wine, Whales and Windmills

We land, over a panorama that's the towering peak which is Mount Pico and a lattice of stone walled minuscule vineyards. Like Saba, the volcano dominates the island. Pico is unkindly and inaccurately named The Grey Island, because of all the lava. I'm not sure why, as Portuguese poet, Raul Brandão, referred to Pico as the 'Ilha Preta' (Black Island). Anyway, that title went to smaller island, Corvo. Pico is the second largest and, geologically speaking, the most recently formed island of the Azores, being only 300,000 years old. Mount Pico, at 2,351 metres, is the highest point in Portugal.  If measured from their base, at the bottom of the ocean, to their peaks, the Azores are among the tallest mountains on the planet.

The Wine Route

Guide Tiago whisks us straight up to the north west coast and The Wine Route. Pico is, apparently, famous for its wine. The houses up here have traditional basalt walls, some overlaid with a lime wash, to give a dalmatian dog type appearance.  The doors are red or green (in the  Santa Luzia area). It’s the rule. We are taken on a seaside walkway, through lava tubes and basalt arches. The lava  cools down more rapidly, where it meets the sea. The first village is named Cachorro  (little dog) after the basalt rock formation here, which I think looks more like a cow. There are pretty coastal views and a ramp, to float barrels of wine into the sea.

 Further west, Lajado has a wine 'interpretation centre' and some grumpy cafe owners. The unusual vineyards are even UNESCO designated, though for the moment only white wine is produced (from black grapes). It's not warm enough to ripen the grapes for red. The vines grow in soil brought over from nearby Faial, in small sailboats (that's where Pico's wealthy landowners live) and poured into pockets dug in the lava. Each vine cutting was planted at an angle, so it would grow along the ground instead of upright. To ensure enough sunshine the vines had to be planted close to the sea.

'In Pico, vineyards should always be planted where you can hear the singing of the crab.'

The fruits are protected from the winds by a myriad of dry-stone walls, called currais. There are so many that they would stretch round The Equator twice. No machinery here. The viticulture is still done by hand, as it was in the nineteenth century. The rock retains the necessary heat to mature the grapes and its minerals nourish the plants. Even the salt in the air contributes, giving the wine its distinctive flavour.

Figs, lemons and sweet oranges (making a comeback) also flourish on the rocks of Pico. Miniature volcanic cones line the main ridge, behind the village. But Mount Pico is always with us, towering above, albeit swathed in cloud. Then, wine tasting at Sao Antonio. It's a divine experience.

Madalena

Then, to Madalena, the island capital. The hotel doesn’t have check-in till four pm.  My bag is opened with enormous bolt cutters, brandished joyously by one of the receptionists. There is a nice swimming pool, overlooking the harbour (if you discount the concrete arches of the wharf). A Scandinavian woman is chastised loudly, by the same receptionist, for swimming topless. She, at least, escapes the bolt cutters.

Madalena is tiny; Pico was settled later than the other islands, and as I've already explained, most of the landowners here live on other islands. There's a church and a couple of streets, bestrewn with blue streamers, to celebrate the recant festivals. I've noticed that the Portuguese post boxes are red pillar style. They used to be imported from England. And there's some upmarket (and pricy) dining. We sample roast limpets - a local delicacy. (They're ok. I won't be rushing for seconds.) But even here you have to be cautious. Cars are driven at terrifying speed, down the narrow thoroughfares.

The Whale Route

The road along the south coast of Pico is dubbed The Whale Route. Whale watching today, at Lajes do Pico, is facilitated  by watchers in towers, called viagias, who radio the animals' position to the boats, before they head out. The marine sanctuary in the Azores is home to (arguably) 29 species of cetaceans, varying from blue whales, to fin, to humpback and false killer whales and various types of dolphin.

I've been whale watching three times already this year, in Canada and I've been lulled into a false sense of security. All the rides were relatively comfortable, even in zodiacs. Though admittedly I didn't see any whales. The vessel we are whale watching in here is more like the one in Mayotte. And that was much too exciting. This is a twelve seater, sit astride, facing front, zodiac. Oh good. Oh good. It’s a pretty choppy, pretty bumpy, and very wet, ride. The lady next to me wails 'I hate this. I hate this. When is it going to stop?' The pretty French guide smilingly tells her we've only just started our journey. And we're at the back of the boat, in the less jerky section. 

But, unlike Canada, I do get to see a couple of shy young sperm males, from a distance. Their distinctive sideways blow gives them away. Sperm whales live in this area year round, so there's a good chance of spotting them.The other species have already passed through, on their various migrations. There are also some exceptionally shy Risso's dolphins, leaping away from us. They swim mainly underwater and are white shadows, in the turquoise waves. Their lightness indicates their age; they fight and acquire white scars, which gradually cover their bodies.

Whaling

Lajes has a museum dedicated to whaling. Whale hunters were the first to use the viagias, though no radios in those days. The boats were tiny with a captain, directing operations, a harpoon wielder and six oarsmen. The whales were tracked down and connected to the boat with the harpoon. Then, lances were used to attack the brain and heart, until the whale was dead and could be dragged back to shore. It was a bloody and very risky business, but whale oil was valuable. It does not thicken at low temperatures and was used for a multiplicity of purposes, now supplanted by modern chemicals. Sperm whales were especially prized. They contain vast amounts of oil, in their heads. The whales were dismembered and the blubber placed in cauldrons, to extract the oil. Today, the boats are still used in rowing competitions.

Scrimshaw is the art of carving whale bone and teeth. Sperm whale are particularly suitable. There's some fine craftsmanship on display. There's also an aged, crackling film at the museum, explaining the history of whaling. but my sea sick pills have knocked me out and I fall asleep.

Windmills

More scenic coastline. We're still circling Mount Pico, of course, less pointy from this angle. The Flemish windmills on Pico are scarlet and exceptionally pretty, dotted across the vineyards. Most of them are the traditional mounted (or monte) windmills, used for grinding corn, to make flour.

Faial, the Blue Island

Faial gets its name from the faial plant, an endemic wax myrtle, which was once abundant on the island and was mistaken for beech trees, by its discoverers. But, Faial is known as 'Ilha Azul' ', The Blue Island, because it has even more hydrangeas than any of the others. Portuguese poet Raul Brandão wrote this:

'The man that had the idea to border the road with these plants should have a statue on the island. In no other place do they prosper better: they need a covering of light, humidity and heat…they are in their place. Their blue is the blue that adorns the Azores on limpid days…this is a blue that is even more blue, the bunches of flowers of a colour more intense and fresh. They are in every direction: rising along the roads and the fields, forming hedges; they serve to divide the plots and to cover the peaceful animals.'

The small population here has fluctuated. Kennedy opened the borders of the USA to Azoreans, when the volcano, at Capelinhos, on Faial, erupted in 1957. Many folk were forced to leave their land and homes. In addition, the Portuguese Salazar regime was brutal, and many folk were not unhappy to leave. The Americans were compassionate. and also keen to utilise the Azoreans whaling and seafaring skills. Most of the emigrants settled in Massachusetts; some went to California. Many families remain there, perhaps still sending back money. Others have returned, after EU investment vastly improved the standard of living. Everywhere is pristine, exceptionally clean.

Just to complicate things further, because of their arrangement, in the central islands, Faial, Sao Jorge and Pico, are known as The Triangle Islands. Capital, Horta, is directly opposite Madalena, across a channel, which takes 30 minutes to cross, by boat. It's a relatively easy journey. We only have to roll our bags out of the hotel and across the road, to the terminal. But the ferry is, literally, packed to the gunwales.

Horta

The Legislative Assembly of the Azores is located in Horta, making it the Azores' legislative capital. The itinerary bills Horta as the liveliest and arguably the most eye catching  town in the Azores. It has a very picturesque skyline, the houses tumbling down the hillside to the port. We get the best views as the ferry enters the harbour, and from the Madonna, on the hill above. Horta is a key stopping place for yachts crossing the Atlantic Ocean; its walls and walkways are covered with paintings commemorating the various vessels' visits. Peter's Café Sport, just across from the marina, is well known to all the yachties. It houses the island's scrimshaw museum. Next door, a fortress, turned hotel.

 But the streets are very quiet – the opposite of lively. This, despite the fact that the Azores is having its busiest tourist season ever. The Americans have discovered the islands and are landing in droves, on their way to mainland Europe. There are also plenty of Scandinavians, French, Italians and Germans, as well as Portuguese of course.

Is everyone indoors? The larger hotels are full. So, I’ve been separated from the rest of the tour group and am lodged in another establishment. It has lovely views across the sea port and out to Pico volcano (it's still with us) and on two other sides, across the little town and the slopes of Faial. Except that I’m a single lady and so, naturally, I’ve been put in a three bedded room, with an outlook onto a strip of green hillside. There's a man strimming by the window. No scenic panoramas for me. And they take half an hour to check me in, as one desk lady  just walks off duty when it's my turn. And then they’ve lost one of my bags and I have to track it down. Grrr.

Our guide Luzia, is an American returnee. She takes us to a fish restaurant for lunch, but it's not open. The sign in the window says it’s closed every Wednesday.

Round Faial

One of the most off putting aspects of tours for me is the large hotel breakfast buffet and the scramble for lukewarm, badly cooked food and a table. When you’re solo, there’s also the need to protect your food and drink from being  cleared away, mid-meal, by over-zealous waiters. There isn’t anyone else to guard it and possessions left around the table  apparently don’t count.

The vast number of tourists means that there is no bus available for us, on our island tour. We're in two cars instead.

More stunning coastal scenery - two arches in close succession. Then the Morro cheese making 'factory'. The Azores is renowned for its dairy cattle, and especially its cheese, and Morro is deemed to be one of the finest. Here, they make fresh cheese; six days sitting wrapped in muslin cloths, to preserve the shape and then it's dried with a dehumidifier. Cured cheese is left for longer, till a skin forms. It's more than a little whiffy inside and we're asked to wear plastic overshoe covers. We slip and slide, all over the wet floor. There are huge vats of cheese being separated, with the whey gushing out. But the end product is delicious. We sample plain, garlic and parsley and chilli varieties. And 'ooh' and 'ah' at the tiny calves in the adjacent pasture.

The Capelinhos Volcano

As well as being responsible for the most recent eruption in the Azores, the Capelinhos Volcano is the westernmost point of the island and and the westernmost point of Europe (if you don't count Monchique Islet, just off Flores - it's uninhabited). Luzia maintains that this was the first submarine volcano, but says that the authorities were lackadaisical about certifying this. And a few years later Surtsey erupted, off Iceland, and took the title, erroneously of first, and therefore most famous, submarine volcano.

There's a museum (I refuse to write interpretation centre) explaining the progress of the eruption. The eroded remains of the craters are still barren.And there's a lighthouse, for a time buried under the lava.

The Caldeira do Cabeço Gordo

I'm still upset at not seeing the Sete Cidades caldera. The Caldeira do Cabeço Gordo, in the centre of Faial, is billed as 'probably the most impressive crater of the Azores'. But clouds are billowing, as we wind our way up to the top and I'm not holding my breath. Through a tunnel and there it is, in all it's glory. Two kilometres wide, 400 metres deep. Stunning.

Why The Rainbow Tour?

A final dinner, at fish restaurant Genuino, with a lovely view across the smaller bay here. And so another voyage of discovery ends. Four islands, each surprisingly different in character and all engaging, in distinct ways. Colourful soubriquets, changeable weather and plenty of flowers. Notwithstanding the lack of Eva Peron, this really has been a Rainbow Tour.

Read more about Portugal here.