Travelling to Egypt

It was Egypt that really ignited my travel curiosity. A friend’s husband, Ian, showed us slides of his student travels. He only took canned food along, ham and pineapple chunks, to avoid the stomach bugs. But I was already besotted with the ancient history – all those intriguing myths. Mummies and weighing of hearts. Tombs and curses. And after seeing the desert and all those gigantic monuments I was hooked. Several years later I finally got there, on a package tour to Cairo, Giza, Luxor and Aswan.

My last tour didn't begin very auspiciously. I took a photo of a donkey pulling a rubbish cart on my first day in Cairo and was immediately ‘arrested’ and escorted down to the police station. The Egyptians, it seemed, were not keen on having their garbage collection advertised. I hadn’t even realised that it was rubbish. I was only interested in the cute donkey. After an ear-wigging (how was I to know? Not the best way to encourage innocent tourists I think), they removed the film from my camera and let me depart. It was a rude shock and almost cured me of my travel ambitions. Almost.

But that was a very long time ago, so now I'm back, on my third visit to Cairo, but my first since the digital age. The plane from Heathrow is delayed already, because of traffic control. Apparently, the skies over Europe are busy today. It was a very early start and I’m waiting to sleep. My airport taxi driver told me to nap on the journey and then talked non-stop the whole way !

I’m met by Akram who is very organised and very superior. Especially when it comes to women. It’s not long before he’s taken charge of my ATM endeavours and drawn out much less money than I wanted. I mustn’t carry too much, in case I get robbed, I’m instructed. Even though there’s a four USD charge for every transaction. He’s also informed me I’ve booked into the wrong hotel. I should be downtown, not in Giza. And he grandly declaims that Egypt should not be compared with other Arab countries, when I have the temerity to talk about the Arab language. It’s ancient and unique. That told me.

I’ve been trying to acquire information about what sites are included on the Exodus Tour I’m going to join, in two days’ time. What I’ve been told is contradictory and I’m desperate to see the Khan al Khalili Bazaar, having failed to even find it on my last two visits. Akram says that my guide is a very nice guide and he will take me anywhere I want. Yes, the bazaar. Yes, the newly ( partially) opened Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM).

When I WhatsApp the guide, Nael, in the evening, it’s a very different story. Yes, to the bazaar, but then no, after consultation with the tour managers. Doesn’t he know his own itinerary? He thinks no to GEM. The group will go to Saqqara instead. There are already two museums included.

The Road to Ismailia

Before I join my tour I'm taking a side trip to Suez. The city traffic no longer crawling, like it used to ( for the most part), but still chaotic and the driving utterly crazy. There are overpasses and underpasses and four-lane highways. In places there are parallel four-lane highways. Eight in each direction. Large vehicles are supposed to use the outer roads. The emphasis is on the supposed to. Small pick ups chunter laconically, but no sign of any donkeys now. The cars speed along, weaving in and out of each other, with no consideration for the lane markings, where they're marked at all. It's a matter of pride to avoid them, I'm told.

My driver Khaled is clearly not afraid to join the fray. He’s accelerating right up the bumper in front before swerving to one side. I can’t always guess correctly which way we will go. He’s one handed on the wheel, the majority of the time, Mostly, because he’s checking his phone with the other. I’ve given up asking him questions. His English isn’t amazing and he’s checking his answers on Google Translate. 'Safe, safe', he cries.

Well, I think I'm going to Suez, but I'm not, I'm going to Ismailia, which is a new city at the centre of the canal construction. It’s new highway the whole distance. Running parallel with green crops, the irrigation channelled all the way from the Nile. More new cities. An industrial area. Theme parks. Khaled buys me mulberries from a roadside stall. They’re mostly green, unripe and odd tasting. The few red fruits excessively sweet. Khaled urges me to eat them and I select a few, worrying about food poisoning. It's an ever present threat in Egypt, and I suffered badly last time.

Ismailia

By the time we arrive at Ismailia, nearly two hours later, my neck is solid from tension and my braking foot aches. But we've only had one near miss and that wasn't driver Khaled’s fault. It's a peaceful city. Modern, but quiet, despite the fact it’s a national holiday, to celebrate winning Sinai back from Israel. Little work is available now the canals are completed. There a few families out picnicking, on the grass of the central carriageways

Ferdinand de Lesseps, the Frenchman responsible for canal construction, built his house here, next to the beautiful sepia and brown building which was once the control centre for the construction and is now the Suez Canal Museum. I have a very good guide, one of the managers. She even refuses baksheesh. And it's a fascinating story, entwined with the more recent history of Egypt. The manpower involved was astonishing. I didn’t know that the Ptolemies had already built their own version of the canal, linking the Red Sea to the Mediterranean, via lakes and a distributary of the Nile, at the delta. But it has long since silted and dried up.

Aldunfah Beach Club, run by the Suez Canal Authority, is the place to watch all the boats traverse the basin here, from the north. This used to be a holding area, as ships waited their turn. The canal would only allow ships to travel in one direction at a time. The journey takes just 11 hours in all, now a second canal has been dug out for much of the route - a project initiated by the current president after the Ever Given ran aground, in 2021, causing massive delays. He was told it would take three years. He demanded one year. It took one year and 11 days. It’s very pleasant, sitting by the small beach and tracking the container vessels, chugging down the waterway, alongside the carved-out desert.

Seafood is obligatory here, close to the Red Sea and we feast on fried shrimp and rice in a restaurant, which I’m pleased to see is mainly patronised by locals.

Giza, the Second City of Egypt

Giza is very close to Cairo, but it's a city in its own right. In fact, it's the third largest city in Egypt, close to the site of the ancient pharaonic capital, Memphis, and home to the must see necropolis on the Giza Plateau: the Great Pyramid of Giza, the Pyramid of Khafre, and the Pyramid of Menkaure, along with their associated pyramid complexes and the Great Sphinx of Giza, several cemeteries and the remains of a workers' village.

I’ve chosen The Steigenberger Hotel, advertised as having splendid pyramid views. The only other splendid view option is the Mena, which is directly opposite the pyramids and supposed to be fabulous. But it’s over 400 USD per night, so it’s not an option. As is so often the case reality isn’t quite what I had fondly imagined. The Giza necropolis is indeed just across the road. But it’s a major road, with plenty of speeding traffic. And there’s a big neon screen and a crane in the way too. It’s a good job the pyramids are huge – I can still see them well. It’s just not very romantic.

To add insult to injury I’ve been given a room which has a solid balcony. Direct pyramid view yes. But only if you stand up. No sipping ( very expensive) cocktails and admiring the panorama at the same time then. I’d also thought I would get a free sound and light show (Son et Lumiere). But it hadn’t occurred to me that the lights might be on the far side of the pyramids. And they are. I can just make out some lasers trickling up and down the side of Khufu, the Great Pyramid. According to the reviews, the lights barely make it up to the tip of the pyramids, even from the show side. And the whole thing is deemed corny. Oh well. At least the Mena is on the wrong side too.

The bell captain makes the usual song and dance about showing me how the air con works, so he can justify a tip. I’m perplexed about the exchange rate after Akram’s intervention and worried I might over tip wildly. 'I don’t have any small money', I extrapolate wildly. 'That’s fine', he beams. 'I have change'. And he fans out a wad of notes.

The Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM)

The new Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM) is in its soft opening phase. Which means that Tutankhamun (or rather his tomb artefacts) isn’t there yet. He is still in the down town Egyptian Museum, where he was last time I came. Except only some of him was. His death mask was in Germany on tour. I’ve been terrified that he will be in transit for this visit and I will miss him again. But it seems not. Akram assures me he’s in GEM already, so I’m confident he’s still where I understood him to be, in the Egyptian Museum.

GEM is promoted as the biggest museum in the world and it is directly over the road from my hotel. That’s not such a positive factor as you might think either. As I’ve said it’s a busy four-lane road. And there’s a high wall in the centre, that I certainly can't climb over. But I’ve decided I can’t risk not seeing it and I’m going on my own. The wonderful tour company. (I’m already sadly cynical), have quoted 135 USD to take me. And it’s just 17 GBP equivalent to go in. I leave early on Friday, when the traffic is quieter and saunter along the pavement, till the central wall disappears, near a roundabout. Then, I run for it.

The museum is, IMHO, unmissable. The artefacts are arranged in stunning fashion, in lofty pyramid themed halls, with statues arranged artistically, up sweeping staircases. I take my place amongst rows of pharaohs.

Travellators sweep you up the many flights to the top, so you can admire the statuary from a distance. Then, there’s the main gallery, now mostly open. It's not hugely easy to follow the zig-zag chronological order of the 12 galleries, from the Old Kingdom to the New, and the Graeco-Roman period. And there is nothing hugely archeologically significant. But the exhibition is beautifully arranged and wonderfully photogenic. It would be a crime to leave it out. Let's see how the other two measure up.

The Pyramid Parks Resort, a Party, and a New Record

I have to move just up the road to the Pyramid Parks Resort, for the tour. I decide to spend the afternoon by the Steigenberger pool, before transferring by cab. It’s a quiet hotel and both pool and restaurant are peaceful, which is a definite plus. They charge 20 USD for a two minute drive. But I can’t wheel my case along the highway and they know it.

And I’ve clearly made a bad decision in arriving at what I thought was the end of the afternoon. This hotel is very different from the genteel but faded Steigenberger. The foyer is decorated with fake gilt Egyptian God statues and swarming with people. There’s a party in full swing, across the enormous pool. The noise is appalling and there are swaying bodies everywhere.

My room is of the villa outbuilding type. Renovated with cheap laminated furniture, it still has the old air con controls, which have to be set at 10 degrees before anything happens. The bell captains show me this of course. They have it down to a fine art here. One shows me the room and the other brings the case over later. Double tips. The walls are vibrating. The hoardings say the party finishes at six p.m. but no one is taking any notice of that. The clocks went forward last night. I can only hope that they’re working on the old times. The porter tells me cheerfully that there’s a huge party at the pyramids tonight. I won’t be going. Dominican Republic all is forgiven.

My stomach is already playing up, to add to my misery. That must be a record. I’ve only been here two days. I should have just pretended to eat those mulberries. I’ve had to see the doctor and been injected and prescribed sundry medicines - a multitude of pills.

The Great Pyramids of Giza

Time to join my tour. we are six. Two couples who are Brits of Indian ethnicity (via Kenya), Gavin from Scotland and tour guide Nael. And we're off to see the sights.

The Great Pyramids were all built during the Fourth Dynasty of the Old Kingdom of Ancient Egypt, between 2600 and 2500 BC. The Great Pyramid was one of the Seven Ancient Wonders of the World, listed by the ancient Greek poet Antipater of Sidon. (Despite being by far the oldest of the Ancient Wonders, it's the only one still in existence). The pyramids are three huge edifices (though not as big as the ones in Mexico it has to be noted), magnificent when viewed from expensive hotel rooms. However, it has to be said that I discovered, on my last visit, that they are all slightly disappointing inside, empty and smelly. I’ve read that they are still discovering internal hidden passages in them. And there's currently an exciting story about huge new chambers underneath, circulating on the web. But everyone here assures me it's fake news.

A camel ride in Giza is almost compulsory, but on my last visit, the camel owner lead me round the back of the pyramids. ‘Nice long ride’, I thought naively. But he refused to bring me back until exorbitant amounts of baksheesh had been paid. Guide, Nael promises a safer experience this time. But my fellow tourists veto the proposition.

Today, the necropolis area has been completely revamped, with official entrances, shops and a viewing platform (with camel ride options). The pyramids are not awe inspiring, in the hazy distance, more compelling close up. Unexpected huge staircase slabs of granite. Limestone covering stolen away over the centuries, along with an assortment of the huge cubes. A tumble of bricks by the side of the largest, the 136 metre Great Pyramid built by Khufu. Or rather, he ordered its construction and a hundred thousand men laboured every year, for 28 years, between July and October, when the inundation prevented them working the fields. Just behind, is the limestone topped Khafre pyramid. He was Khufu's son and his face is preserved for posterity on the Sphinx, in front of his pyramid, next to his mortuary temple.

The Sphinx is enigmatic, as promised, if a little battered. This iconic statue is 73 metres long, with the body of a lion. Sadly, it seems that the story that Napoleon shot his nose off with shells is not true. He didn't have the explosives necessary at that time in history and, apparently, it's been missing for over a thousand years. The Sphinx is the most enticing of the monuments here. Mournful and poised. He stares over his giant folded paws. Nose long gone. I wonder what he makes of the sound and light shows, chairs set at the ready opposite.

The littlest of the Great Pyramids belongs to grandson Menkaure. Perhaps it's like the Kim dynasty in North Korea and the descendants pretend they are less important. But it's more likely that the construction of the two giant pyramids almost bankrupted the nation.

Cairo, the Capital of Egypt

The doctor has been checking up on me. He says he feels he wants to look after me as I remind him of his mother. The comment doesn’t exactly make me feel warm and fuzzy, but he’s being very kind. Another injection, more pills. I haven’t had a very good night.

The name of Cairo, is derived from the word for Conqueror, but Egyptians generally refer to Cairo as Misr (as in the name of the country), as their capital is so important to them. It sits right at the junction of the Nile Delta. The history of Cairo, of course, goes back a long way. Ancient cities nestle around it. Heliopolis was associated with the sun god Atum, who came to be identified with Ra, and then Horus. It was home to several obelisks. One, the oldest in the world, remains, the others were stolen.

And it is very much still huge and sprawling - it is both the biggest city in Africa, and in the Arab world, with an urban population of over 26 million. But it is now a very different city. Not white or cream, but assorted shades of biscuity beige. Grey apartment buildings soar into the sky, each side of the heart-stopping overpasses, only relieved by the splashes of colour, which is the washing flapping on the balconies. Between Cairo and Giza it’s more adventurous, with sepia stripes and rectangles on the buildings. There’s even the odd touch of sage green. But otherwise it’s a monochrome Mondrian.

There's a new capital being built, in the suburbs and, thanks to all the new roads, the traffic is, for the most part, continuously moving, but there is still (it seems) no Highway Code. (There are a lot of cemeteries alongside the roads.)

Islamic Cairo

On my last trip Down Town, we visited the Ottoman Muhammad Ali Mosque, the Sultan Hassan Mosque and al-Rifa'i Mosque and the Egyptian Museum. And I couldn't find the entrance to the celebrated bazaar, the Khan el-Khalili, on either of my previous visits. There was however, a very famous authentic café, El Fisahwi, which was at least is a good place to relax after all the stress…

Today, we start with the Al Azar Mosque, in the historic Islamic core of the city. One thousand years old and beautiful, it has five majestic minarets, three of which were built in 1340, 1469, and 1510, a large prayer area, madrassas, and a breathtakingly beautiful marble central court. This was the first mosque commissioned in the new capital of the Fatimid Caliphate, in 970. Cairo eventually earned the nickname 'The City of a Thousand Minarets'.

I'm now been told firmly that the elusive Khan al Khalili Bazaar is not on the itinerary. But I've discovered it's very close to the Al Azar Mosque, so I sneak off. The bazaar is reached by an underpass, from the mosque. Third time lucky. It's not the prettiest of souks, but authentic, dirty grey streets overshadowed by minarets. The streets narrow, as I wander in. The stalls just opening up, lines of mannequins, being hoisted into the air above me. Early means relatively quiet. There isn’t too much hassle, except for one persistent old man, who follows me for five minutes before giving up. 'No', generally seems to be understood. Even by the men behind the benches, which signal tea houses, beckoning under the jacaranda trees.

The Egyptian Museum

The renowned Egyptian Museum, a ‘trove of antiquities', is an antique itself, completed in 1901, rambling and pink and hardly changed since then, with the artefacts displayed in wooden glass fronted cases. On my first visit, the treasures were guarded by men with AK 47s (but they've gone) and the most famous exhibit, the Tutankhamun Mask, was touring, in Germany.

It's swarming. The discovery of Tutankhamun's almost untouched tomb, in 1922, (it had been robbed like all the tombs but early on and not ransacked and was then was hidden by other tombs), hardly needs telling. The curse of the tomb and the death of sponsor, Lord Carnarvon, are well documented. But Howard Carter, the archaeologist, survived to live off his fame for many a year.

Some of Tutankhamun’s 4000 odd tomb artefacts (a boy king needs a lot to play with in the afterlife) have already been removed, ready to place in GEM. So, Akram was partly right. But, fortunately, the removed pieces are the ones I saw last time I was here. The outer sarcophagi, the shrines (like a huge four poster bed) and the chariots. The death mask is there, in the midst of the throng, along with the main gold sarcophagus and the gorgeous throne. No photos allowed (!)

Tutankhamun's accoutrements have been replaced by artefacts from another Valley of the King's Tomb, that of the ancient Egyptian noble Yuya and his wife Thuya. They were the parents of Queen Tiye, the chief wife of Pharaoh Amenhotep III, Tutankhamun's grandfather. Their tomb was discovered, in February 1905. It had also been robbed in antiquity, but many of its original contents, including chests, beds, chairs, a chariot, and numerous storage jars were preserved. Until the discovery of the tomb of Tutankhamun, took all the glory, this was lauded as one of the greatest discoveries in Egyptology.

Also amongst the haphazardly arranged collection are the burial artefacts of Psusennes I and the treasures of Tanis. Downstairs, statues of the kings of the Old Kingdom, who built the pyramids. Ironically, the only statue of Khufu, responsible for the Great Pyramid, is tiny, caved of ivory.

The National Museum of Egyptian Civilisation

Then, The National Museum of Egyptian Civilisation. This is relatively new and only partially opened. I’m struggling to understand the logic of the organisation of the three museums. It’s definitely not chronology. They all seem to cover the same periods, although this one also extends to the nineteenth century. This last museum has an assortment similar to GEM, but is much smaller and less grand. Its main rationale seems to be the large mummy exhibition, in the downstairs chamber. Nearly all the major pharaohs' mummies are displayed, including Rameses II, warrior king (who lived to be 99) and Hatshepsut (only female pharaoh). Constant shushing by the staff and reminders to be quiet doesn’t make the experience any less ghoulish. A lot of very old, dead people. No photos allowed.

Memphis

Memphis was the ancient capital of the pharaohs, on and off through ancient times. Today, it's an enclosed area with a haphazard mass of fragments from Egypt’s history. We're visiting on an optional afternoon trip. The biggest draw is a Rameses II statue, lying prone, as he's been kneecapped. Literally. The legs aren’t there. There’s also a sphinx which is probably Hatshepsut. No-one can tell, as there’s no cartouche (these are enclosed hieroglyphics bearing names). Rameses II, on the other hand has multiple cartouches on his statues, and on numerous statues which aren’t really him at all.

Lunch at a nearby restaurant packed with tourists on the same trail, but thankfully a deliciously authentic grilled meal.

Saqqara

Sakkara was one of the ten ancient necropolises of Memphis. The step pyramid here is not only the oldest pyramid in the world, it's also the oldest stone building complex. It was built in the 27th century BC by the chancellor (and high priest of Ra) Imhotep. it's a mere 65 metres, for Pharaoh Djoser, next to his mortuary temple. The latter was designed to mimic the Royal Palace. Imhotep of course featured irreverently in The Return of the Mummy. Scarabs and architects running riot. Imhotep, was, however, deified by the ancient Egyptians.

Sakkara also claims the very first attempts at building smooth sided pyramids. One turned out to be bent. But the ancients learned their lesson and there’s a scattering of other, smaller but successful ones. There are also plenty of dug out tombs to explore, one (with fine tomb drawings) belonging to a princess, Idut.

On the way back, we have to stop at carpet warehouse, to see a weaving demonstration which lasts all of two minutes. After all, we're really here to be tempted into buying carpets.

Wadi Natron

Wadi Natron means salt valley and that’s where we are headed today. The ancient Egyptians mined salt here, to use for mummification. The highway is quiet. It’s a good time to doze.

Christians came to the area, as an early refuge from the Roman emperors, who persecuted them, (especially Diocletian) and they founded the very first monasteries . St. Anthony of Egypt was a religious hermit and one of the earliest Desert Fathers, considered the founder and father of organized Christian monasticism. (According to guide Nael the first of everything happened in Egypt.) Anthony died in 356, having established Dayr Mārī Antonios hermitage, near the Red Sea.

The monastery of St Bishoy, which we're visiting, dates back to an almost as impressive 400 AD and actually has four Syrian monasteries inside. It was founded in honour of Egyptian monk, St Bishoy, who had holy visions. During one of these he carried Christ on his back, whilst Jesus was manifesting as an old man. These and his kindly thoughtful nature, eventually resulting in miracles of healing, led to his sainthood. We are guided by a delightful monk, aptly named Cherubim, who demonstrates the same cheerful qualities He is dressed in a hooded gown decorated with crosses, which replicates the ones in the pictures of St Bishoy. And indeed, everyone inside queues up to kiss his hand, as we pass by.

There’s a communion service ongoing in the church. Cherubim leads us into the middle of it (most of the worshippers are standing chanting) and requests one of the devotees to take our group photo. It's posed in front of the wrapped in plastic miraculously preserved body of St Bishoy. He's kissed in the same place on the plastic by everyone who comes in. (There are also some of the bones of St Paul. As there are in many places).

There’s a modern residential block behind, but some of the 200 residents live in the original 400 AD cells, with two tiny rooms. One a bedroom, with a stone bed. Positive luxury. But it's tranquil and spiritual.

To one side, there's an alley, incongruously full of souvenir shops, a supermarket and a restaurant. Pizza boxes lined up on the counter. We slink off to buy cold drinks. They’re very cheap here. Cherubim gets into a car and zooms off.

Now we’re off into the desert proper. Sahara means desert in Arabic, so we actually call it 'The Desert Desert'. The Arabs know this area as the Western Desert. It's flat and unexciting, in these parts. To the north, fruit trees, olives and vines, on newly irrigated lands, utilising subterranean springs. The new four-lane highways remain astonishingly empty, except for the queues at the toll booths. Cash only here.

El Alamein

I've pinched my lunch from breakfast buffets before, but I've never been instructed to do it by the tour guide. He says there is nowhere to buy lunch around El Alamein. Though I see plenty of cafes when we reach El Alamein marina. A string of resorts by the most turquoise of seas. The sea bed is white here and this is very much being developed as a tourist area. But they are still clearing World War II mines and have to be careful. This is alongside development in the whole of Egypt. There are 22 new cities and the new capital, New Cairo, still being built. Parliament has already been moved.

The Battles of El Alamein (known as Al Alamein in Arabic), were of course, the turning point of the Second World War and we are visiting the newly built Military Museum and the battlefield cemetery.

The museum is astonishingly badly organised, with cases on each country and, again, no sense of the order of events. The information provided is full of spelling mistakes and bad grammar. However, I have read, on one signboard, that the magnificent drive to the coast, by the Australians, in the second battle of October 1942, won the battle, according to Churchill.

Wikipedia tells me that the Allied victory effectively ended the worrisome Axis threat to Egypt, the Suez Canal, and Middle Eastern oil fields. It was a significant boost to Allied morale, as it was one of the first major victories against the Axis forces since Operation Crusader in late 1941. The allies were famously led by General Bernard Montgomery, the Axis forces by Field Marshal Erwin Rommel. The battle resulted in heavy casualties for both sides, with estimates of around 13,600 British and about 30,000 German, including 7,200 prisoners.

Outside there are biscuity beige guns, planes and tanks aplenty.

The cemetery, up the road, is almost unbearably sad. Like those in Northern France, rows of the bodies of very young men, with the most moving of comments on the headstones.

Alexandria, Egypt's Greek Capital

Alexander the Great didn’t stay long in Egypt, or last long anywhere, for that matter, but the Ptolemaic dynasty which followed lasted for 300 years. They didn't pay tribute to Athens, the Greeks just merged with the Egyptians. Unlike the Romans, who famously followed, with the story of Anthony and Cleopatra. However, Alexander did found Alexandria, in 331B.C., on the edge of the Nile Delta, in the vicinity of an Egyptian settlement called Rhacotis (integrated as the Egyptian quarter of the city). Alexandria grew rapidly, becoming a major centre of Hellenic civilisation and replacing Memphis as Egypt's capital, during the reign of the Ptolemaic pharaohs, who succeeded Alexander.

It remained the capital for almost a thousand years, (at one time the largest city in the ancient world before being eventually overtaken by Rome). through the period of Roman and Eastern Roman rule, until the Muslim conquest of Egypt in 641 AD. Then, a new capital was founded at Fustat (later absorbed into Cairo). Today, Alexandria is the second largest city in Egypt and the largest city on the Mediterranean coast. Soubriquets include 'The Bride of the Mediterranean' and 'Pearl of the Mediterranean Coast'. Balmy and sunny, with sandy beaches, Alexandria is a popular tourist destination. But it's also been a major port, for the cotton industry and an important industrial centre, due to its natural gas and oil pipelines, from Suez.

Late lunch, or very early dinner, at a fish restaurant in Alexandria port. The fort and harbour before us. It’s all perfect. Boats bob in the water, picturesquely, as they always say. The pastel pink Paradise Inn Hotel is French heritage, built in 1902. It's hardly been touched – faded grandeur, plenty of gilt and mirrors and the fanciest of lifts. This is built next to the exact spot where the obelisk, which is now in New York, originally stood. There’s a commemorative sculpture. I just hope this old lift doesn’t break down.

My room is packed with fake ormolu and there’s a Juliet Plus balcony, covered in bird droppings. I can just get my nose outside to see the view across the square and the Mediterranean. The restaurant and bar are on the roof, overflowing with white jacketed waiters. Even better views across the port to the sea. It’s as good a place as any to pay homage to the film Ice Cold in Alex.

The Catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa

Ancient Alexandria was the intellectual and cultural centre of the ancient Mediterranean, known for the Lighthouse of Alexandria (Pharos), one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World; its Great Library, the largest in the ancient world; and the Catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa, one of the Seven Wonders of the Middle Ages. But of these, only the catacombs have survived.

The Alexandrian Catacombs were discovered when a donkey fell down a shaft. No-one knows who owned them and why they were abandoned. It's thought they are Roman, second century AD. Whatever, a winding staircase into the depths leads to hundreds of burial slots, surrounding some intricately carved and decorated central chambers with scattered statues. These mix and match Roman, Greek and Egyptian features: Egyptian style statues with Roman clothes and hair styles. Nael says that they were never used, but I've read that three sarcophagi were found. The Hall of Caracalla, contains the bones of horses used by the Emperor Caracalla. Those are heaped willy-nilly in a glass display case. The interesting section is minuscule and crowded with French guides declaiming at length, and it's not even a cruise ship day.

The traffic is crazy and the streets narrow. Trams of all sizes and shapes weave their way alongside us. The new disc shaped Bibliotheca Alexandrina, replacing Alexander's old library, is next on the itinerary. We're headed for a tour there at 12, but progress is slow and Nael announces that we're not going to make it. We will go instead to the citadel. I ask if we have to take a tour of the library, but he says it will not be as good without it. End of discussion. So, we about turn on the corniche.

The Citadel of Qaitbay

The fortress at the harbour mouth, the Citadel of Qaitbay, is built on the site of Alexandria’s lighthouse. A Mameluke sultan first constructed it, in AD 1480. It was destroyed by the Ottomans and then again by the British, in 1887. Sadly, the top deck is closed as it's still being renovated, but you can walk round the walls.

The Bibliotheca Alexandrina

After the citadel, we head off for the library again. For the 13.15 tour. The promenade traffic is still grim, lined with illegally parked cars. I look at my watch. It's already tour time and I point this out to Nael. 'Oh well', he says, 'We will miss it. I'll do the tour myself.' No comment.

The original Library of Alexandria, a venerated seat of learning for the ancient world, was part of a larger research institution called the Mouseion, dedicated to the Muses, the nine goddesses of the arts. It was built by Ptolemy II Philadelphus. At its height it contained 700000 papyrus scrolls, but it was unfortunate enough to catch the brunt of one of the many coastal battles here and it caught on fire. Only one scroll was saved. (The original is now in Vienna.)

The new glass edifice was designed by a Norwegian based firm of architects, after they won a competition. It was completed in 2002 and paid for by donation. From the outside, it's notable for its modernity, alongside the corniche's twentieth century architecture. Inside, it’s a tiered and pillared masterpiece, with computer study areas, plenty of book and map storage and a tranquil Come Let’s Learn atmosphere.

In the basement, an antiquity museum (well it is Egypt) a manuscript museum (nothing older than fifteenth century), art galleries and historical artefacts. The most interesting is Sadat’s office. I’m not sure if it’s the original.

St Mark’s Cathedral

That’s where our official tour day ends. So I’m off with Gavin (to mastermind crossing the roads, where traffic never stops and there are no pedestrian crossings) to find St Mark’s Coptic Orthodox Cathedral. The city was a major centre of early Christianity and the cathedral is the historical seat of the Pope of Alexandria, the head of the Coptic Orthodox Church. More importantly, it's believed to stand on the site of the church, founded in AD 42, by Mark the Evangelist. There are records, dating to AD 311, of a chapel here, containing bodies said to be of Mark and his successors. In 828, most of the body of Saint Mark was reported as stolen and removed to Venice, but his head was left in Alexandria.

The church was destroyed and rebuilt again several times, due to Islamic invasions, the crusades, and a simple need for enlargement. So, the current church only dates to 1952 and that was doubled in size in 1990. But one of the oldest churches in the world is said to be underneath. A little man unlocks the door so we can get downstairs to see it, behind a glass panel.

Aswan, Egypt

We fly safely to Aswan, from Cairo, with just a few bumps en route, despite the fact that there is a kamsin - giant spring windstorm - forecast and the news says all the schools will close for the day.

Aswan is as gently pretty as ever. The azure Nile is mesmerizingly beautiful, flowing serenely through the centre; palm trees sway. The local felucca boats dot the skyline, sails billowing. Last time, I was intrigued to lodge at the renowned Cataract Hotel, built in 1899 by Thomas Cook. All manner of celebrity guests have stayed in this colonial edifice: Tsar Nicholas II, Winston Churchill, Howard Carter, Margaret Thatcher, Jimmy Carter, François Mitterrand, Princess Diana and Queen Noor.

I'm more interested in the Agatha Christie connections. She set part of Death on the Nile here and it was used as a set for the film too. Sadly, I was in the newer budget wing (built in 1961). This was known as the New Cataract Hotel, until Sofitel bought up the whole site and renovated it. I pop down the road to have another look. Not to miss a trick, they now charge 1000 Egyptian pounds to enter.

Today's Basma, on the other hand, has definitely seen better days. On a hilltop, above the Old Cataract, with glorious views up the Nile and across the desert, but faded. One of those places where you don't want to look too closely at the edges of the shower. Bathrooms in Egypt generally don't seem to warrant much attention. Even the lovely museums have toilets with battered wooden doors and ancient grouting. The restrooms by the pool at the Basma are disgusting. Bins overflowing and thick dust on the floor. On the plus side, they do water the artificial grass.

The Basma’s breakfast isn't going to raise pulses either. Some very dubious juices, which taste oddly manufactured and some highly coloured yogurts. One radioactive looking bowl is labelled blue croissant. I'm not trying it. The juice was disturbing enough.

Nubia

Despite yesterday's dead day, consumed by driving to Cairo, and then to Aswan, we don't start till 11a.m, so everything is done in the heat of the day. And it's hot, in the middle of the desert. According to one carriage driver touting for business Aswan, like Jordan, is suffering from lack of tourists, due to the Middle East War. The hotel is empty and the town quiet. Consequently, there’s far more hassle from vendors and calèche drivers, desperate for some tourist dollars.

Today's focus is Nubia. Strictly, Nubia is a region along the Nile river encompassing the area between the confluence of the Blue and White Niles (in Khartoum in central Sudan), and the first cataract of the Nile (south of Aswan). But this area has important links with Nubia. The kingdoms overlapped in later years, with the Nubians even dominating Egypt at one point. and many Nubian peoples live in this area of Egypt.

We begin with the Nubian Museum, which has appeared between the two hotels, since my last visit. Similar to the other museums, it's modern and attractively laid out, with the odd large eye catching statue. But only vaguely arranged in historical order, culminating in Nubian village scenes. So, I'm still getting a headache trying to sort out the chronology of ancient Egypt, as again there are boards, where even the information on individual boards is not sequential. And there are no chairs at all, in the spacious foyer. The floor is very hard. I thought we were finishing 15 minutes ago, so I go outside looking for the group. They won't let me back in again, on the same ticket.

The stone quarries of ancient Egypt are located on the hillside opposite here. They used a granitic rock called syenite. to build the colossal statues, obelisks, and monoliths which are found throughout Egypt. You can visit and walk on The Unfinished Obelisk, commissioned by Hatshepsut. This is the largest obelisk ever attempted. It began to crack, as it was hewn, and so was abandoned in situ. I saw it last time. But Nael is actively discouraging this as an additional option. He tells me to take a picture with my zoom lens instead.

Downriver, a felucca ride away, Elephantine Island holds the Temple of Khnum, from the Third Dynasty. The desert is atmospheric, and Aswan suitably relaxed, if still baking hot. The Aga Khan's mausoleum is resplendent on a desert hill top. The irrigation is fascinating; there are still numerous Archimedes screws, just visible as we drift along the banks. I’m trying to photograph them successfully. Eureka, I have it! We tack slowly past Kitchener Island, breezy and somnolent. Then, we feast on Nubian chicken, potatoes and okra, with sweet delicious guava juice. And then we zig-zag slowly back again...

The breeze wafts through the boat. It's impossible to stay awake. The next thing I know I'm almost catapulted off a camel, as it lurches up and then I'm swaying up a sandy hillside, towards St Simeon’s Monastery. Lulu is a relatively well behaved camel, although she's not keen, as we approach the steepest section and makes those distressed camel noises. I can't think of a word to describe them. And I feel guilty that I'm on her back.

I'm distressed too. Travel company, Exodus have deemed the last part of the route too steep to be attempted on camel back, so we have to walk in the searing heat. I'm not sure it's worth it. It's a very ruined monastery. But there are pleasant views across the Nile. I'm declining a return camel journey and arrive back by the river, giddy and overheated. I'm hallucinating cold Coca Cola and then magically, a guy appears with some on a tray. It's not a mirage.

A motor boat this time, around the reedy islands and Nubian settlements, on the West Bank. The houses are gaily decorated and crammed with utensils made of palm. Next stop, a museum house with a talk about these and life here, in the mud brick houses.

Off again, to a rapturous welcome at a Nubian guest house, with my favourite. Participation dancing. More Nubian food and drinks, on the terrace by the Nile.

Abu Simbel

There's an optional visit to Abu Simbel, 200 miles south, today. But the planes are all full (apparently they were full quite a while ago) and it's a long journey by road. involving a 4 a.m. start. Expensive too, as the Indian foursome have vetoed this one also. Gavin's managed to secure a waitlist business class seat.

But I went on my last visit, when it was the highlight of the trip. The story of the reconstruction of the gigantic two temples, to save them from the inundation forming Lake Nasser, when the Aswan Dam was built, was enthralling. (The temples are 30 metres high, just look at the tiny people.)

The twin temples were originally carved out of the mountainside, in the 13th century BC, during the nineteenth dynasty reign of the Pharaoh Rameses II, to commemorate his victory at the Battle of Kadesh. They were placed right at the southern frontier of pharaonic Egypt, facing Nubia. There are four colossal statues of Ramses (20 metres) in front of the main temple. One is headless, thanks to an earthquake. His mother, wife Nefertari and children are included, as smaller figures by his feet, (because they are less important), but Nefertari is permitted a temple of her own, as well.

The temple is dedicated to the sun gods Amon-Re and Re-Horakhte, and consists of three consecutive halls, extending 56 metres into the cliff. On two days of the year (about February 22 and October 22), the first rays of the morning sun penetrate the whole length of the temple, illuminating the shrine, in its innermost sanctuary.

The flight there and back wasn’t much fun. Nearly everyone on board had travellers’ diarrhoea (as foretold by Ian), but the plane toilets were forbidden - too much desert turbulence.

Cruising on the Nile

We've been upgraded to the Movenpick boat, for our Nile cruise. I’m very excited, as it's the boat used on the premium tours. But I've let my imagination run away with me 9again). I've watched too many reruns of Death on the Nile and I expected colonial grandeur. And indeed, we traverse a highly ornate boat which matches that description, on our way through, to embark. But the Royal Lily, the flagship of the fleet is modern minimalism. Smart rather than atmospheric. My room is beautiful, with a picture window. And I've never had a cabin bathroom with a bath in it before. The sundeck has a plunge pool, with an odd large shaped paddling pool type affair. The staff are super attentive. The dining room overflows with men in tall white hats.

The Aswan Dam

But we’re not actually setting off till tomorrow. And then, next day, it’s more local excursions first. We’re off to the Aswan Dam. The High Dam is three kilometres long, designed to control the flow of water into the Nile, so preventing the annual flooding and helping to control drier periods. (The Aswan Low Dam, which had been completed in 1902, was at maximum capacity.) The flooding, (in 1970) created Lake Nasser (500 kilometres long), displaced half a million Nubians and covered numerous villages and monuments. Eighteen of the most important were relocated.

The dam was partly funded by Egypt and partly by Russia. The UK and the USA had originally agreed to back the construction, but simultaneously refused to supply arms to Egypt, if they were to be used against Israel. The Suez Crisis followed, as Nasser looked to raise funds and struck an alliance with the USSR, in the aftermath.

The Friendship Monument, above the earth dam, commemorates Egyptian Union with Russia, a lotus shaped V sign to the USA. For an extra ticket, you can take a lift to the top.

Philae Temple

Fourth century B.C. columned Philae Temple is prettily set on an island, where it was moved when the High Dam was built. We are ferried out in boats, past boulder strewn islands. The main Isis Temple, has huge pylons (monumental gates). There were once twin obelisks here, in front of the pylons. One of them was The Cleopatra’s Needle, now on the Embankment, in London. A glass roofed section was once used as a church; here are crosses carved on the pillars.

In those days, ordinary folk were not allowed inside, but today it's crammed. The Chinese have come dressed in their fanciest gear. Lacy dresses and parasols; they spend all their time posing for pictures, pouting by the pillars. Nael says it's much worse in the cooler months. This is the end of the season, before the very hot weather. Fortunately, it's breezily comfortable today.

There's a separate small, delicately gorgeous pillared temple, dedicated to Hathor. Last time I was here I was lucky to have the architect who supervised the relocation, there to tell us all about it. The careful cutting up of the stone into numbered blocks, the transportation, by boat, and the painstaking reconstruction. Astonishing.

Kom Ombo

Our boat finally sets sail, through date palmed lined desert. Children splashing and shrieking. Time to doze in the balmy breeze. Kom Ombo was the training centre for the Ptolemaic army and the capital of the area, for a while. The temple is dedicated to the crocodiles who gathered at the increasingly wide bend in the river. Sobek was the crocodile god, though I have to be careful to check I'm not mixing him up with Anubis, the jackal god of mummification. I have to look for a longer snout, with teeth.

But the temple is also dedicated to Horus, who was God of Edfu, the later capital further north. The building is literally spilt down the centre, long-ways, with a listening ear in the middle of the far end wall. As with all these temples, it's enormous, with towering pillars; the remaining specks of colour suggest how incredible it must once have been. But it’s been ravaged. One of the sons of Mohammed Ali (de facto ruler from 1805) used the stone from the pylons to build a sugar factory here and most of the two pylons have disappeared.

There’s a pit, where crocodiles were raised. Only one special crocodile at a time was sacred. The Romans used the crocodiles as an oracle, the priests feeding them special treats beforehand, so that the omens would be good and no one would get hurt. There’s also a very deep, well-like Nilometer here, measuring the depth of the river and to warn of flooding.

The mummified crocodiles once kept in the temple have been moved to a next door museum. They don’t look hugely different from the living creatures, but at least they’re safely under glass.

Then, we join the flotilla of cruisers plying the Nile waters, heading north again.

Edfu Temple

Edfu is the site of the Ptolemaic Temple of Horus, the ruler of Egypt. But horror of horrors. We have been told to get up for a 5.30 departure to visit it. There's a bus to transport us, for ten minutes, through dark streets, to the temple. Others are going by calèche, but apparently that's banned by Exodus. I'm not sure if it's on cruelty to animal grounds or just hyper attention to health and safety. I suspect the latter, as they've already banned camels on steep hills and hot air ballooning.

Anyway, we arrive in the gloom, at the temple, to find the usual row of over eager vendors and a very long and static queue. Then, it's standing for 20 minutes, before the temple actually opens. A few guides sneak their groups through the ranks to the front, as the skies lighten above us. There has to be a better way to do this.

Edfu Temple was constructed between 237 and 57 BC. It was then only used for 20 years. Houses were built right up to it and then were removed, during the renovation. As a result, it’s one of the best preserved monuments, covered over by buildings and sand. The temple was dedicated to Horus and the reliefs tell the story of the ongoing battle between Horus and Set, as Horus revenges his father Osiris’s death. The cartouches however, are empty, as two Ptolemies were fighting for the throne at that time, and no one knew who was actually the king. There are also inscriptions depicting the pharaonic death rituals.

The crowds are appalling, inside the main temple. Perhaps the calèche man in Aswan was just making up sob stories when he said there were no tourists here. There are multiple lines weaving around each other, in vain pursuit of men waving flags representing the various mainly European countries. Lots of Chinese and some Brazilians.

Back on the boat. It's still early. After battling more crowds, round the breakfast buffet, I head for the sundeck. There's about 20 crew up there frenzily cleaning. They vacuum the artificial grass, on the Movenpick.

This really is a flotilla. Cruise boats fanning out across the width of the river. None of them is exactly speedy, but Royal Lily gradually overhauls them, until we're leading the fleet. It's a whole day of sailing. More palm trees, shrieking children in the water, little reedy islets, agriculture: bananas, dates, and the rocky desert behind that. One hundred and ten million people live along the banks of this river.

In the evenings there's entertainment, in the bar, Belly dancing and a galabia party.

Esna and Entertainment at the Lock

We queue up with the zillion other boats to wait our turn to pass through the lock at Esna. The locals here row small boats out and attach themselves to the ships, with lines. They're offering souvenirs, mainly table cloths, which they brandish below us, like sails. Then they roll them up and throw them up onto the sundeck, in plastic bags, and you attempt to throw the money back in the bag.

I'm not sure how much gets lost in the river, but the men seem so adept at this, as they manoeuvre the little boats adroitly to collect the missiles. One guy is hoarse from shouting so much. They’re doing a roaring trade and it's great entertainment.

It takes forever to transit the locks. One lock gate and a large basin and mini reservoir, between two dams, used to control the release of water downstream. The persistent vendors even follow us in here, with their row boats. Then, the second lock, where the two gates are shut and the levels adjusted. It takes two ships at a time.

Luxor - East Bank

Valley of the Kings

So, now it's time to explore Thebes, the ancient capital for much of the Middle and New Kingdoms and highly significant spiritually. Its east bank buildings are buried in modern day Luxor. Its necropolis was built on the west bank of the river and we are off to the astonishing Valley of the Kings, in that necropolis. In an attempt to thwart grave robbers, the pharaohs of the New Kingdom (16-11th century BC) began to construct hidden burial tombs, cut into the rock.

They weren't entirely successful. Many of the tombs were robbed, not very long after they were built and sealed (despite builders and servants buried inside, to keep the secrets, as we are incorrectly told). Famously, the only tomb to survive more or less intact was that of Pharaoh Tutankhamun. There's also a Valley of the Queens and Valley of the Nobles, but there's rarely time to fit them in. As well as the ever present possibility of getting 'tombed out'.

And now we're definitely in the business of trying to escape the crowds and stay together. Nael doesn't deign to wave a flag. The car park at the Valley of the Kings is heaving. There are lines and lines of coaches. I want to buy the extra tickets required for the tombs of Tutankhamun and Seti I, but the ticket machines aren't working. So, another long queue to buy those. Then, into the throngs passing through the security machines. As usual, no one is watching the screens, or does anything if the alarm pings. And most places have two sets of security and scanning machines to navigate, before you can even enter. Then you have to run the gauntlet of the vendors thrusting their wares in your face, whilst telling you are beautiful and will receive a free gift. Surprise, surprise, nothing turns out to be free.

Three Tombs on the Ticket

Since I was last here the Valley of the Kings has been Petr(a)ified. Golf carts to take us the short distance to the tombs. At a price. That's another ticket. The tombs now all have concrete entrances and wooden ramps inside. The lower frescoes are covered in glass. The main ticket allows entry to three of the nine generally open tombs. They rotate to limit damage.

On the advice of Nael, I visit the tombs of Rameses IX, Rameses III and Merenptah. Rameses III has beautiful illustrations: boats, gods and goddesses, The Book of the Dead. But it's accessed by fairly steep ramps, full of queuing tourists.. Rameses IX is smaller, flatter and otherwise very similar. Nael says that the third, Merenptah, is large but fairly easy to get into it. 'Is it flat?' I ask. 'Yes', he assures me. So off I go. It has s several very steep and slippy ramps. And it's not hugely impressive at the end. Almost bare, with a stone carved figure .

Tomb of Tutankhamun

Tutankhamun's tomb has to be revisited. Small and beautiful, with the mummy in situ, to compensate for the fact that everything else is in the museums. It's not a huge cost and it's fascinating to imagine the discovery and opening, in 1922. Though I can't for the life of me work out how all those 4,000 artefacts, chariots and all, fitted in here.

Tomb of Seti I

The tomb of Seti I, (or KV17 as it's labelled) ), is the tomb of a pharaoh of the Nineteenth Dynasty. Seti I's tomb is the best. It too has long exhausting ramps.( One of the longest and deepest in the valley), but is large, with 17 antechambers, all beautifully decorated. A curved chamber and blue ceilings. It was uncovered by Italian archaeologist and explorer Giovanni Belzoni, in 1817, so is also known as 'Belzoni's Tomb, The ticket is by far the most expensive, but this results in very few visitors, so it’s possible to look at the amazingly illuminated reliefs in peace. Though it's stiflingly hot, as are all the tombs.

Mortuary Temples

It’s very hard work, clambering up and down all those steps, in these temperatures. But we’re not done yet. Most of the mortuary temples of the New Dynasty are the other side of this valley. The stand out here, built into the cliffs of the rocky desert at Deir el Bahri, is that of Hatshepsut, the only female pharaoh. This temple is built over three levels, capped by a small pyramid, which covers the tomb. It's directly aligned with the Eighth Pylon, which Hatshepsut had added to the Temple of Karnak.. It’s best seen from a distance. It’s been heavily reconstructed by Polish archaeologists and has lost much of its character.

Hatshepsut means 'Foremost of Noble Ladies'. (She looks very kind in her statues.) Hatshepsut ruled during the first dynasty of the New Kingdom (or the 18th Dynasty counting from the beginning). That's 1550/1549 to 1292 BC. She had to bribe the priests heavily, to be allowed to reign, after the death of her husband/ brother Thutmoses II.

The Colossi of Memnon

Egypt is definitely one of those places where you run out of superlatives. It's like seeing a favourite story book come to life. Perhaps my favourite sight, also on the opposite bank of the Nile to the city, are the the Colossi of Memnon, two massive stone statues (18 metres) representing Amenhotep III, the pharaoh 3,400 years ago. They have been renamed by the Greeks, after King Agamemnon. Shelley's great poem Ozymandias, sums the scene up beautifully and has to be one of the most evocative pieces ever written. How can you not want to come and see that?

Gavin and the Indian foursome are all smarting tonight. They’re all scammed separately, by an Egyptian man claiming to work as a chef, on our boat, inviting them to go buy spices with him. He then summons a caleche and plunges them into a deserted souq, demanding fees for his services and the horse and cart. Gavin escapes quickly and unscathed, but the two couples are parted with a few dollars. No-one has thought to ask, till too late, which boat the clearly imposter chef actually works on.

Luxor West Bank

Karnak Temple

Today, the spiritual centre of Thebes, for those who were living. Last time, I came to Luxor by overnight train. It was a Hungarian relic, the toilet a steel cuboid free-for-all. To be avoided, as far as possible. But Luxor is amazing, built over Thebes, the ancient capital of the Pharaonic, Middle and New Kingdoms. The colossal temples (hieroglyph-covered Karnak and Luxor) are incredible,

You can't miss Karnak Temple; it is huge. Though it’s not the largest temple complex in the world, as Nael claims. That honour goes to Angkor Wat. Karnak dates back almost 4,000 years (begun in 1970 BC, by Senusret I). It is staggeringly enormous and would swallow dozens of notable European cathedrals without blinking. And, it does boast the largest room of any religious building. The Hypostyle Hall is 134 columns, spread over about 16,500 square metres. You'll recognise this from James Bond, (The Spy Who Loved Me - Remember Jaws with his bowler hat?), Agatha Christie (Death on the Nile) and numerous other film sets.

It's dedicated to a triumvirate of gods, Amun, Mut, and Khonsu and has been added to and altered over the centuries of pharaonic rule. Hatshepsut, for example, provided four obelisks. One is truncated, where it threatened to topple and they made the best of the situation. They’re floated up-river, from the granite quarries at Aswan. Modifications continued to the Ptolemaic period, but most of the work here, chapels, pylons and chapels, dates from the New Kingdom. It was never actually finished; there are still brick ramps in place, by the first pylon. Although much of it is now decayed and damaged, as with most of the temples, there's still enough to leave you thoroughly open mouthed.

The outside walls depict intriguing battle scenes telling the story of Seti I’s war against the Hittites (from North Turkey). There are handcuffed prisoners, denoted by long hair and beards.

But there’s a never-ending stream of bodies marching through the centre. It’s like Egypt is being invaded all over again and I’m in the thick of it. And of course, it’s impossible to get a clean shot with the camera. Though people do give a reference point for the scale of these giant pillars and statues.

At the far end, is a scarab on a pedestal. You have to walk round four times anti-clockwise for good luck. Beyond that is the Sacred Lake, which is 3500 years old. More importantly there's a shady area with umbrellas and flowers beside it, outside a café to rest, and escape the scorching heat.

Luxor Temple

The Luxor Temple Complex dates to 1400BC and was built, in part, by Rameses II, the great warrior king. This one doesn’t belong to any particular deity but is dedicated to the rejuvenation of kingship. Guess who? It’s thought it’s where the pharaohs were crowned and even Alexander the Great claimed to have been enthroned here. Though the evidence suggests that he didn’t travel further south than Memphis.

It’s much smaller than Karnak, so it might be considered an anti-climax. But it has many statues and the remains of Nubian houses, a church and a mosque, where the locals made use of the available masonry, before ancient Egyptology became a thing. Hatshepsut added an obelisk here too. The temple is one of the best preserved, despite the use of the space by others. The Romans even utilised it as a fortress.

Not using a calèche has its advantages. Last time, we were harangued, through the railings, by the driver of the horse carriage, who has taken us there. 'Baksheesh, baksheesh', he wailed. The visit was arranged and paid for by the tour company, but he felt he was not sufficiently (additionally) rewarded for his efforts.

The Path of God

The two temples were linked by the three-kilometre row of statues called the Path of God, or more colloquially, The Avenue of the Sphinxes. An annual procession took place along this avenue during Opet, the 27 day festival of regeneration. It was developed to bring fresh energy to the rulers and their kingdom. The sacred barque, used to carry bodies to the afterlife (and often misspelled bark on the signs) was paraded, stopping at six marked stations.

I’ve looked up most of this chronological information. Guide Nael's delivery matches the displays in the museums. Snatches of stories, but no attempt to place events in any order, or carve out relationships.

Farewell to Luxor

A cocktail in the Winter Palace Hotel. This other historic colonial hotel (1907) was where Lord Carnarvon stayed, while his team searched for Tutankhamun's tomb. It has also been taken over by Sofitel and they again charge 1,000 Egyptian pounds to enter. But we discover that you can use this as credit against food and drink. And that's exactly the price of a margarita. Then, a farewell dinner in a small and comfortable restaurant, The Lantern Room. They do a decent gin and tonic, tasty beef tagine and very sweet Om Ali, alongside a host of very British puddings.

Now, I'm off to Hurghada.

And read more about Egypt, the country today and its history and mythology here.