What is the History of Portugal?

• Portugal's history is long and fascinating.
• The area now known as Portugal was originally settled by the Celtic peoples.
• It was later subject to Phoenician and Carthaginian incursions.
• Portugal was a part of the Roman Empire from 45 BC to 298 AD. What we now call Portugal (well 80% of it and a piece of Spain) was then known as Lusitania (after the Roman god Lusus, son of Bacchus, the god of wine - the area was famous for its sweet wine). This is why speakers of Portuguese are still known as lusophones.
• The Germanic tribe of Visigoths came next, establishing the strong institution of the Church in their kingdom.
• Soon after that came the Arabic invasion and occupation, a time in which many Arabic words entered and formed Portuguese. The name Portugal came from the Roman-Celtic place name Portus Cale ( an early settlement located at the mouth of the Douro River which later became Porto).
• Portugal was occupied for approximately 500 years. King Afonso I was the first king of Portugal. He declared himself king in 1139, after his victory over the Moors at the Battle of Ourique. Portugal's borders then were roughly the same as those today, though neighbouring Spain was then a series of smaller kingdoms.

• Portugal then evolved into the first global power. This was the era of explorers such as Vasco da Gama, Fernando Magellan and Bartolome Dias and Portugal established colonies all over the world.
• Half of the known globe once belonged to Portugal. The Treaty of Tordesillas gave Portugal the eastern half of the "New World". King John II negotiated the landmark 1494 agreement with the Spanish Catholic Monarchs, Isabella I of Castile and Ferdinand II of Aragon, He cunningly pushed the boundary westwards, so as to include Brazil (as well as parts of Africa and Asia.)
• Then came the Hapsburg Philippine Dynasty when three Phillips of Spain took over, as King Sebastian died with no direct heir and his successor, Cardinal-King Henry, died childless in 1580. King Philip II of Spain was the grandson of Portuguese King Manuel I, giving him the strongest bloodline claim. António, Prior of Crato, declared himself king, but was crushed by the Spanish Duke of Alba at the Battle of Alcântara.
• At the same time, the Portuguese Empire fell into steady decline, due to war in Europe and colonial resistance. Portugal lost control over parts of its global empire to Dutch and English rivals.
• The Restoration came in 1640 when a successful palace coup overthrew the Spanish Habsburg governor and the Duke of Braganza was crowned as King John IV, initiating the House of Braganza, although this led to a protracted war against Spain (unitl 1688)
• In the early 1700s gold and diamonds were discovered in Brazil funding the absolute monarchy of King John V and some spectacular Baroque architecture.

• In 1807, Napoleon's armies invaded Portugal. In 1808, the king, Dom João, moved to Brazil (with British help) and proclaimed a single state which he called the United Kingdom of Portugal, Brazil, and the Algarves. The new capital of the kingdom was Rio de Janeiro. The state was disestablished in 1822, after King John VI returned to Portugal in 1821 (there was a military revolt in Porto), leaving his son, Prince Dom Pedro, to rule Brazil.
• In 1820 The Liberal Revolution established Portugal’s first constitutional monarchy and limited royal power.1822
• In turn, Brazil soon (1822) declared independence from Portugal. Crown Prince Pedro becomes Emperor Pedro I of Brazil, stripping Portugal of its most lucrative colony.
• The Liberal Wars followed (1828–1834): a not so liberal bloody civil war between two royal brothers. Dom Pedro (fighting for constitutionalism), who defeated Dom Miguel (fighting for absolute monarchy), leaving his daughter Maria, in charge.
• Eventually, in 1910, the First Portuguese Republic was established, after a Republican revolution that also brought on the King’s resignation. This was followed in 1933 by the Second Republic, also known as Estado Novo (New State) under the dictator António Oliveira de Salazar. Salazar’s motto: “Proudly alone” saved Portugal from taking part (mostly) in both World Wars.
• The peaceful Carnation Revolution, a military coup d’état, finally led Portugal into democracy; the first elections took place in 1975.

Is Portugal in the EU?

Portugal joined the European Union in 1986 and was one of the first countries to adopt the euro on 1 January 1999.

Facts and Factoids

• This is the oldest country in Europe.
• Portugal and England have the oldest diplomatic alliance in the world. The Anglo-Portuguese Alliance was signed in 1373 and is still in force to this day. (The British helped the Portuguese resist Napoleon, principally at the Battle of Trafalgar.)
• Today, Portugal owns two autonomous territories: Madeira and the Azores.
• Portuguese is the official language of eight countries. Over 236 million people worldwide are native Portuguese speakers. Portuguese is the official language of Portugal, Brazil, Cape Verde, Angola, Guinea Bissau, Mozambique, Sao Tome et Principe and Equatorial Guinea. It is also spoken in Goa (India), Macao, and East Timor.
• The University of Coimbra established in 1290 is one of the oldest universities in Europe.

• The oldest bookstore in the world is in Lisbon, Portugal's capital.
• Portugal has the world's largest cork forest and is the largest cork producer in the world.
• Salt cod and grilled sardines reign supreme.
• The Vasco da Gama Bridge in Lisbon, at 7.6 miles, is the second-longest bridge in Europe, after the Crimean Bridge, opened in Russia in 2018.

What is There to See and Do in Portugal?

• A river cruise is a relaxing way to see the beautiful northern part of the country. Portugal - Lisbon, Coimbra and Cruising the Douro from Porto - River of Gold 1.
• Lisbon is a great city with a multitude of sights. Portugal - Lisbon, Coimbra and Cruising the Douro from Porto - River of Gold 1
• Porto is a vibrant and fascinating city. Portugal - Lisbon, Coimbra and Cruising the Douro from Porto - River of Gold 1
• Portugal has a plethora of old monuments - churches and palaces, many of them UNESCO WHS sites - Monuments Around Lisbon
• Portugal is known for its long, surfable coast. It has a coastline that spans 497 miles and is said to have 364 days of surf per year.
• The Algarve has some of the most beautiful beaches in the world – though the water can be cold
• Both the autonomous territories - Azores and Madeira are well worth a visit

I’m travelling to Portugal with my long time friend Sue. If you think that’s confusing you should know that we both had the same maiden name at school (we’re not related), where she accidentally got my German report. She didn’t even study German.

This is, we hope, a relaxing trip. A few days exploring Lisbon and then a river cruise up the Douro, starting in Porto. En route we will stop off at the old city of Coimbra.

Lisbon, the Capital of Portugal

• Lisbon is one of the oldest cities in the world, and the second-oldest European capital city (after Athens), by a long way.
• Under Julius Caesar it was a municipium called Felicitas Julia,
• After the fall of the Roman Empire it was ruled by a series of Germanic tribes from the fifth century.
• In the eighth century. it was captured by the Moors.
• In 1147, Afonso Henriques reconquered the city and became the first king of Portugal.
• Since then Lisbon has been the capital of Portugal.
• The Great Lisbon Earthquake took place in 1755 - a massive earthquake, tsunami, and fire destroyed the capital, on All Saints' Day. Prime Minister, The Marquis of Pombal, rebuilt the city using modern urban planning
• The city is globally famous for its pastel-coloured buildings, intricate white-and-black cobblestone pavements, and historic yellow trams.
• Lisbon is the birthplace of Fado, the melancholic and expressive traditional Portuguese music genre performed in local taverns.
• The city serves as the chief political, cultural, and financial centre of Portugal, driving the vast majority of the nation's economy
• Lisbon is officially built across seven steep hills overlooking the vast mouth of the Tagus River, where it meets the Atlantic Ocean. Apparently, there are really eight.

Alfama, Lisbon's Old Town

The old town, Alfama, with its steep maze of cobblestone alleys cascading down to the Tagus is a must for a wander. It dates back to Moorish times, when it constituted the whole of the city. Its resilient Moorish bedrock miraculously shielded its medieval maze of narrow cobblestone alleys from the devastating 1755 earthquake. Pastel-coloured homes are adorned with traditional azulejo tiles, and crisp laundry flutters cheerfully from wrought-iron balconies. A very traditional, older Portuguese fishing-village community, but packed with with souvenir shops. The neighbourhood buzzes with visitors sipping sour cherry ginjinha liqueur at tiny neighbourhood bars and panting towards the panoramic viewpoints like the flower-framed Miradouro de Santa Luzia, which faces out to the river.

Sao Jorge Castle, Lisbon

We eventually work out how to follow the winding narrow streets, and the many steps, past the cathedral, up to the imposing São Jorge Castle. Crowning Lisbon, Saint George's Castle (Castelo de São Jorge) lays claim to antiquity. Humans have lived on the castle hill since at least the eighth century BC, while the original fortifications date from the first century BC. This hill has been occupied by the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, and Moors, before Alfonso finally conquered the land. It's also a great view point across the city and the river.

On the north side of Castle Hill is Mouraria. More narrow, winding alleys, but more rugged, residential, and less crowded. Mouraria is heavily multicultural, home to immigrants from over 50 nations, resulting in a unique blend of global cultures. Alfama houses the official Fado Museum, its performances heavily tailored for tourists. Mouraria is where the genre actually originated, and its Fado venues tend to be smaller, more casual taverns, frequented by locals.

Fountains, Statues, Squares and Lifts of Lisbon

It’s the festival of St Anthony and the streets are lined with stalls and bedecked with pennants, adding to the holiday atmosphere. There are crowds, drinking amicably, and watching the international football, in the larger squares, especially down towards the port. Fountains, magnificent buildings and statues abound, along with the black and white stone pavements and undulating wave patterned squares. Our complaining legs suggest we probably have had a good stab at most of the hills. Though there are several ornate lifts, spilling us out onto the terraces above. Not to mention funiculars, trams, the metro and buses.

Baixa is the grand, grid-like heart of Lisbon, revived by the Marques de Pombal. Wide pedestrian avenues are lined with neoclassical buildings, which rose from the ashes of the 1755 earthquake. The new straight avenues were organized by trade. The street names reflect their bases for eighteenth-century crafts, such as Rua da Prata (Silver Street) and Rua dos Sapateiros (Shoemakers Street.

This central valley acts as the city's anchor, connecting the monumental, riverfront Praça do Comércio - where the magnificent triumphal arch (commemorating the city's revival) frames the glittering Tagus - to the bustling plazas of Rossio and Restauradores. Standing tall above the rooftops is the neo-gothic iron tower of the Santa Justa Lift, which (when its working) hoists passengers from the lower streets up to the bohemian ruins of the Carmo Convent. Baixa is also Tourist Trap Central, the streets filled with covered restaurant tables displaying those meus which show pictures of all the food.

Just a short walk away, the upscale Chiado district buzzes with a mix of historic literary cafes, old-world bookstores, and high-end boutiques, bridging the gap between the stately lower town and the hilltop nightlife of Bairro Alto. Avenida da Liberdade, carries us further northwest. This is Lisbon’s grand boulevard, where towering trees and the intricate black-and-white calçada pavements mimic the elegance of the Champs-Élysées. Naturally, it's the home of Portugal's high-end fashion boutiques and historic hotels (our Hotel Tivoli is here).

The avenida opens open up into the massive, circular plaza of Praça do Marquês de Pombal. Standing dead centre is the monumental stone column, topped by the bronze statue of the Marquis himself, looking down over the Baixa district he rebuilt. A lion at his feet symbolizes power and leadership. Directly behind this enormous roundabout and traffic hub, the green lawns of Eduardo VII Park slope upward. Up top here an enormous Portuguese flag, a clear, cinematic panorama, right down the avenue to the shimmering Tagus River and bus loads of tourists.

Belém District, Lisbon

After exhausting walking tours, a bus trip to the sights in the historic riverside area of the Belém District is welcome; it sits about four miles west of Lisbon's central downtown district, further along the port and the River Tagus estuary and past the Ponte 25 de Abril Suspension Bridge. This looks like the Golden Gate in San Francisco, for the good reason that it was designed by the same company. When it was first built, in 1966, it was named the Salazar Bridge, after the Portuguese Dictator. It was later renamed to commemorate the Carnation Revolution. At the far end is the Cristo Rei statue, erected at the same time.

You get a good view of this part of the city and the even bigger, (second longest in Europe) Vasco da Gama Bridge, as the plane lands. This bridge was opened for for Expo 98, the World's Fair which celebrated the five hundredth anniversary of the discovery, by Vasco da Gama, of the sea route from Europe to India.

The Jerónimos Monastery

The Jerónimos Monastery is one of the most beautiful ecclesiastical buildings I have ever seen. King Manuel I commissioned the massive complex, in 1501, to commemorate Vasco da Gama’s successful voyage to India. It's built near his launch site. The tracery style, is named after the king, (it is absolutely exquisite), and is uniquely Portuguese, defined by intricate maritime motifs and stone carvings. For centuries, it was the job of the monks of the Order of Saint Jerome to pray for the king and guide passing sailors. The monastery became the burial site, or necropolis for the monarchs and for Da Gama too.

Belém Tower

The highly photogenic sixteenth century Belém Tower (moved from a small island in the River Tagus) stands as a symbolic beacon of home for legendary explorers departing for, or returning from (if they were lucky), uncharted seas. The fortress-like tower rises directly from the edge of the river, a stone ship frozen mid-launch. Commissioned by King Manuel I in 1514 and designed by architect Francisco de Arruda, this heavily armed artillery bastion was erected initially to protect the mouth of the Tagus from naval invasions. This grand, ceremonial gateway flaunted Portugal's immense maritime wealth to arriving dignitaries, while simultaneously .

Its brilliant Manueline architecture fuses rugged military bastions with delicate maritime carvings, twisted stone ropes, and Moorish-style watchtowers. At high tide, the river completely surrounds the pale limestone monument, transforming it into an island.

Monument to the Discoveries

Close by is a more recent sculpture, the twentieth century Monument to the Discoveries, which does the same job. This one has statues of 33 renowned Portuguese explorers lining the sides, with Henry the Navigator taking pride of place, at the front.

Monument to the Overseas Combatants

An even more modern sculpture, is the triangular Monument to the Overseas Combatants. It's unmissable - in size and simplicity -and commemorates all the people involved who have fought for Portugal. Just over the road, is another obligatory stop. A shop selling the famous Portuguese custard tarts: Pastéis de Nata.

Our bus tour guide tells us that JK Rowling lived in Lisbon for a while and probably based Harry Potter on the city. I bite my tongue.

Edibles in Lisbon

Lunch for us is ice cream - what else? - and evening meals are seafood of many kinds, (the cod fritters are my favourite), in the local tavernas, or the al fresco bars, along with a caipirinha or two. Lidia, tucked away near the Edward VII Park, serves an excellent repast.

Coimbra - The Medieval Grind: Basalt, Limestone and Books

The next day involves a bus trip to Porto to pick up the boat. This isn’t any old bus. The seats are so wide apart I can fully recline mine - if I want to - and there is fully functioning Wi-Fi. There’s a welcome stop at Coimbra, the Portuguese equivalent of Oxford or Cambridge. Coimbra is the country’s former capital, home to a preserved medieval old town and the historic University of Coimbra and birthplace of six Portuguese kings. In the city’s old town lies the twelfth-century Romanesque cathedral Sé Velha. It's famous for its basalt and limestone pavements - the Portuguese mosaic craft known as calcada.

Built on the grounds of a former palace the university dates back to 1308. This, first Portuguese University, was relocated from Lisbon, where it was founded in 1290. The sky is azure and the ornate roofs and eighteenth-century bell tower. are shown off to their best advantage, rosy and bejewelled. Students pose for pictures in their black witchy gowns and we are fed fascinating trivia knowledge:

• The capes are highly esteemed and symbolic and have cuts inflicted on them, - made by teeth (I think I got that right?). Left hand side for family, right for friends, middle for lovers. You pay homage by inviting someone to walk on it at family events, such as weddings.
• Freshmen are called donkeys – burros.
• The ancient baroque library, the Biblioteca Joanina, is highly gilded with gold from Brazil. They keep bats in the library to eat the lice, which might damage the books, and they cover the tables at night to catch the bat droppings.

Porto

Porto (meaning harbour), at the mouth of the River Douro, is the second largest city in Portugal. Its English name, Oporto, derives from the Portuguese 'o Porto', which includes the definite article 'the'. We embark on our cruise boat, at Porto, to find another festival in full swing. This time it’s St John of Porto and Midsummer combined. There are raucous groups all along the river banks. The local endearing customs from Portugal involve long stemmed garlic flowers that you try and ram up someone’s nose and plastic hammers with which to bop passers-by on the head. None too gently, unless you bob quickly. The fireworks, bang (see what I did there) in front of our boat, at midnight, are more welcome.

The best views of Porto are also to be found from our decks, but we take to the hills of the city again. Porto's medieval centre, along the ribeiro (river) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The designation includes the double deck, huge iron gantries, of the Luiz I Bridge, crossing the river here and the Monastery of Serra do Pilar, perched up alongside it. The monastery has a circular church and cloister.

Further up the slope, more azulejos; the finest are in the station (Sao Bento), churches (São Francisco Church is known for its lavish baroque interior with ornate gilded carvings) and markets.

On the rugged spine of the city, Porto Cathedral (Sé do Porto) commands the skyline, a twin-towered stone fortress. Built in the twelfth century, this brooding monument anchors Porto's history, its sheer granite walls and narrow slits reflecting a time when churches doubled as military strongholds against invaders. A dim, soaring nave which feels completely untouched by the centuries. The real magic happens in the brilliant, sunlit Gothic cloisters, where the walls are wrapped in a sweeping ocean of blue and white tiles which depicts scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary.

Back outside, on the vast cathedral terrace, the entire city layout snaps into focus, a cascading sea of terracotta rooftops, the deep fracture of the Douro River, and the sweeping iron expanse of the Dom Luís I Bridge stretching across the gorge.

The most renowned shops in the heart of town sell the salted dried cod, bacalao, it’s pegged up in lines outside. One café offers the delicious little fried potato fritters stuffed with the cod (Pastéis de Bacalhau), an irresistible mid-morning snack.Descending again, the nineteenth-century Palácio de Bolsa, formerly a stock market, was originally built to impress potential European investors.

The north bank of the river is a feast of colour. Ochre and cinnamon buildings, cafes and shops tucked into arches. The opposite side lined with warehouses and arched wine caves, selling port. Port wine, one of Portugal's most famous exports, is, of course, named after Porto. Most of the caves clearly have English heritage, reflected in their names.

Back on the boat, there is more excitement. The river is flowing fast to the sea and small flocks of seagulls take turns to squat together on the wavelets and race past. At the bend they fly back and start again. When they get bored, the salmon take over and follow suite, leaping along.

Guimares

The boat finally sets off. on its 100 mile voyage up the Douro (River of Gold). to the border with Spain, but we are not on it. A side trip to medieval Guimares, is offered. This city goes back to the ninth century and is often referred to as the 'birthplace of Portugal', because it is thought that Portugal's first King, Afonso Henriques, was born here. It was even, briefly, the first capital of Portugal.

There's a tenth century castle, with splendid crenellations and red turrets, two medieval plazas with cathedrals, churches and the town hall and the Palace of the Dukes of Braganza (also with red turrets). The Gothic Padrao do Salado Monument with four arches and a cross commemorates a battle victory. There are also winding cobbled streets, cunning timber houses, craft shops and boutiques aplenty. And yet another festival. This time, most of the townsfolk are garbed in medieval costume and there are processions, markets and much frolicking, including a mock battle and people being placed in the stocks.

The Douro - River of Gold, Portugal

We join the boat upriver, for dinner at a monastery with a traditional fado performance. So I haven't escaped one and yes it is definitely exceptionally mournful - it is supposed to depict women longing waiting for their men folk, who are at sea.

We then cruise slowly onwards through the glorious port wine country, mostly hills and vineyards of various emerald to buttery yellow hues. This is the world's first protected wine region, coming under the UNESCO umbrella.

The vessel is palatial. Our cheapest-on-offer cabin is dinky, but has everything we need. There is sustenance available  at all times, in the shape of the ubiquitous Granny Smith or, the more tempting cakes and biscuits. Lunch is snacks, soup and salad, or a full three course meal. Sue is delighted to discover that chips in a basket and ice cream is a possibility every day.

The average age of the passengers on board is probably seventy. A sizeable proportion are American. There is an entertainment team at our disposal and plenty to do on board other than sunbathing. (It’s a very acceptable temperature, but surprisingly windy up top at times.) There is a daily bulletin full of information. It suggests that there are six famous people from Portugal. 'Only six?' we wonder. But we get stuck after Jose Mourinho and Ronaldo (there's a theme going on here) and Vasco da Gama and Ferdinand Magellan.

Mateus Palace

The first stop proper is at Régua. The attraction here is the resplendently baroque Mateus Palace (just like it's depicted on the Mateus Rosé wine labels). This was the home of the last count of Vila Real. There's the manor, which is a euphemism for the grand seventeenth century palace, the chapel and a winery (of course).

It's set in gorgeous enchanting formal gardens: cedar-lined walkways, exquisite sculpted hedges and statuary and a alke deliberately designed to reflect the palace. Very clever.

Sailing east along the Douro. Dramatic, sheer rock formations, picturesque terraced vineyards, graceful bridges and trestles; There are also ample locks and bridges to inspect. It's utterly gorgeous. And the boat is really cleverly designed. When we pass under a low obstacle, the whole of the bridge collapses into the deck below. The captain just stays in his seat, steering. I don’t understand why he doesn’t turn into a replica of Flat Stanley.

Castelo Rodrigo

To Barca d’Alva, not far from the Spanish border. Today's excursion is to Castelo Rodrigo, a historic fortified town (though it's not really big enough to be called a town), 2,200 feet above sea level. The streets are narrow and steep, and the houses sixteenth century. Sinagoga Street was the home of refugees from the Spanish Inquisition. The castle is really ancient - founded in the sixth century, when the land was part of Leon, if legends are to be believed. It's named after Count Rodrigo Gonzalez de Girón.

Pinhão, Portugal

Then, the boat turns round at the Spanish border, at Vega de Terron, (there's a side trip to Salamanca) and retreats down the Douro to Porto, cleverly mooring at different points on the way back.

Retracing our route, west now, through the quintas (vineyards) to Pinhao. Up to the the little village of Favaios, and one of the last traditional bakeries in the Douro River Valley. Hot fresh bread and more wineries, naturally. Round here it's moscatel. The best part of this trip is the stunning views back down to the river.

Lamego

We moor at Regua again, but this time we're visiting Lamego. The attraction in this small town is the Baroque Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies. The shrine, decorated with exquisite Moorish style has the most ornate (and steep) staircase, with many flights taking us, breathless, to the top. It dates back to the fourteenth century and is still used by pilgrims today. There's also the town’s Gothic cathedral and the ruins of a twelfth-century castle thrown in.

Before we leave there is the usual captain’s dinner. Much to the envy of the American contingent, the captain and the hotel manager come and sit with Sue and I. We attempt to entertain them by telling them about all the famous people they have on board. There is one woman who could pass for Liz Taylor (in a certain light) and another is a dead ringer for Angela Merkel. In fact we have to check that Angela is really still in Germany. It’s a very quick turnaround for the hard pressed crew. They speed our leaving from the now familiar quay at Porto, as the buses containing the next week’s trippers are already on their way.

Read more about Portugal here