Life is a Beach

For many of us beach time is one of the most enjoyable parts of travel. In fact, for some, beach time is an essential part of travel. Is that when travel becomes a holiday? Collins Dictionary says that 'A holiday is a period of time during which you relax and enjoy yourself away from home'. At this point another group of readers will be shouting, 'I hate sitting around doing nothing'. Or, 'I only like cool climates'. Each to his own. But beaches, I would contend, are not just for the summer, or for sitting (or lying down). The right beach is wonderful for walking and exploring. Waves crashing on the shore in a gale are truly awe inspiring. Just don't go too close.

Untouched, Remote Paradises

I've recently read an article in The Times Travel section which purported to offer the best quiet beaches in the Caribbean, so I’m reflecting again about what makes a beach special. Quiet? What exactly does this mean? I suppose beaches fall very broadly into three categories:

• Fully Serviced: (Ideal for families, foodies, and social travellers .May have blue flag certification, chair/umbrella rentals, toilets, and beachside tavernas.
• Rustic / Semi-Wild (Day-trippers and casual adventurers.) Minimal development. Usually features a dirt parking lot and a single food truck, and you probably need to bring your own shade.
• Raw / Wilderness (Solitude seekers - for whatever reason - and hikers.) Zero infrastructure. Pack everything you might need.

For me, tranquil and peaceful is ideal, but not solitude. That’s slightly alarming when I’m travelling solo. And snorkelling alone is definitely not a great idea. The theme music from Jaws comes into my head as soon as I venture into water on my own.

But I abhor crowds. Fighting for a piece of sand to lay down my towel and having to endure other people’s children spraying sand over me while their portable speakers blare out hip hop is not my idea of fun. Perfection lies somewhere between the first and second category, (serviced but hardly anyone there) but the second works well, with some advance planning.

Comfort and Safety

Sometimes I forget to check that a beach is going to be safe and comfortable. Stunning water is very frustrating when I can't get to it. Or get in it.

The Sand Profile

The sand profile is important for several reasons:

• Pure silica or coral sand: pure ultra-fine silica or coral sand, from ground down reefs is gorgeously shiny white and most importantly, does not retain heat, so it's always good to walk on. It's ideal for families with young children or anyone who hates wearing sandals on the beach. Counter this with: it can blow into your eyes and it gets everywhere, including your food. (Especially the aptly named sandwiches).
• Volcanic and quartzite/mineral mix sand: volcanic sand is often black, quartz beaches tend to be beige or golden, or a mix of very fine grains. These can look striking, with mountain backdrops, but this sand absorbs extreme amounts of heat and can easily burn bare feet. It, too, also blows about and can be very tenacious.
• Pebbles, coarse or shingle sand (sand composed of small pebbles or crushed shells): doesn't blow on the wind or stick to towels, making it excellent for reading and sunbathing. And no dust means clear seas for snorkelling. But walking, can be uncomfortable, particularly in the water. Beach shoes are required. Pebbly beaches can be lovely (see Tsammadou in Samos below), but I'm not sure they can compete with your iconic white sand beach looks wise.

The Water Profile

• The offshore barrier: is the beach protected by a coral reef, a sandbar, or a natural bay ? A protected beach (like a lagoon) ensures calm, swimming-pool-like water. An open-ocean beach means breaking waves and potential rip currents.
• The tidal drop and slope: does the shoreline drop off steeply into deep water, or is it a long, shallow shelf? How far out does the tide go and what does it expose? Your preference will depend on whether you are a toddler or a snorkeller. But it's very useful to know in advance.

Solar Orientation (The Clock Factor)

• West-facing or east-facing? West facing beaches guarantee panoramic sunset views and long, warm afternoon light. East-facing beaches are ideal for early risers who want to catch the sunrise or enjoy morning walks, before the midday heat peaks.
• Cliff-shadowed beaches: beaches tucked under towering cliffs might look stunning in photos, but they may lose the sun completely by early afternoon, plunging the beach into cold shadow.

Exotic Topographies and Geological Wonders

What do I like to do on the beach? I like to read, swim a little, explore a bit. I’m not someone who just sprawls and soaks up the rays. I definitely don’t carry strips of foil to place under my chin so that I get an even tan. In fact, I tend to retreat under an umbrella more often than not nowadays. If there is one.  And my dodgy back requires a sunbed. It gets creaky on the ground. (I’ve got a little lightweight chair I carry sometimes.)

So - my ideal beach: safe, quiet, sunbeds and parasols (or shade) on offer, warm (it goes without saying). And scenic. I’ve not yet mentioned scenic, and something lovely to look at is crucial. I'm inevitably drawn to the turquoise waters, brilliant white sand and bendy palm trees on tropical islands. Coloured sands, rock formations or volcanic peaks add bonus points, as does a little motu (islet) out in the bay.

Rich Wildlife and Biodiverse Habitats

Wildlife is an additional and important draw. Ideally a coral reef drop off for snorkelling, not too far off the beach.  Turtles are wonderful to swim with, serene and graceful. I'm still off sharks, even tiny reef ones (Cocos Islands - Reef Sharks Aren't Dangerous - Right?). Iguanas are always fascinating, scuttling in the undergrowth and watching from a distance.

Penguins are my favourite birds (along with puffins - also found by the sea). Though whilst I'm on birds, don't encourage seagulls by feeding them. They turn into intransigent pests and the food is bad for them anyway. And watch out for terns. They will dive bomb you if you go near their nests, as I have discovered.

Or find a bioluminescent beach (and go at night).

Best Beach in the World Lists

There are a plethora of Best Beach in the World lists. Probably more of these than any other travel 'Best Of ' list. But when I read them I get the impression that the writer hasn’t actually been to many of the places that they cite. I don't think a beautiful strip of sand is enough. It needs an exciting backdrop, preferably with some variety. That's' why my list won't won't include places like Grande Anse in Grenada or Trunk Bay in the U.S.V.I. To be honest, I found the latter really disappointing. It's been touted so much. I don't think it helped that I was almost the only person there.

However, I have been lucky enough to test a lot of beaches in my travels. So, my recommendations follow.

Oceania

I’m going to start with Oceania, as I’m spoilt for choice here - and it’s my favourite part of the world.

Australia

Whitehaven, Whitsunday Islands

So many great beaches in Australia. You almost can’t go wrong wherever you end up by the sea. But some of them are truly magnificent.  The beaches round Sydney are famous, but crowded. Cable Beach, near Broome, goes on forever, and features camels. Describing a beach as best in Australia is audacious. It’s tantamount to saying best in the world – or equivalent of. But Cossie’s Beach (see up top), in the Cocos Islands has claimed to be the best in Australia. It’s named after Peter Cosgrave, a recent governor. It’s a classic arc of pale white sand backed by palm trees (not bendy), giving way to clear azure water. There are those little reef sharks, whizzing about in the shallows. I’ll mark it eight, or maybe nine, out of ten. For me, Australia’s Whitehaven Beach, in the Whitsunday Islands, with its swirling white streaks (this is your proper silica) in a cerulean sea, complete with basking rays, has a pretty strong case for best in Australia, at least.

Fiji

Blue Lagoon, Yasawa Islands

Again, spoilt for choice, in Fiji. The beaches in the Mamanuca and Yasawa Islands are gorgeous. I’m going to select the Blue Lagoon, where they made the eponymous film, with Brooke Shields, around Turtle Island. Soft white sand, calm, turquoise and cyan water with touches of periwinkle and good snorkelling at hand.

Cook Islands

Aitutaki Lagoon, Aitutaki

Aitutaki Lagoon, in the Cook Islands is rightly advertised as the most beautiful lagoon in the world. A spectacular, pristine coral lagoon with stunning jade water, vast white sandbars, and a scattering of tiny, motu; home to sea bird colonies.

French Polynesia

Matira, Bora Bora and Rangaroa, in the Tuamoto Islands

Bora Bora is a close contender for best lagoon in the world too. It’s stunning from the air. Matira Beach here is lovely and you get the views of the central island. But it’s expensive.

Or go much further afield, for real tranquillity to Rangaroa, in the Tuamoto Islands. The Green Lagoon here is another little piece of paradise. Exquisite opalescent swirling cobalt water, lined with those bendy palm trees and shimmering white sand. Decent snorkelling not far away and small shoals of fish nibbling at the edges. It isn’t green, but I’m not going to make a thing of that.

Tuvalu

Funafuti Lagoon

Tuvalu is a little out of the way for most folk. You can only get there via Suva in Fiji and the accommodation is ‘interesting’. But the conservation area in the Funafuti Lagoon is sublime, only accessible by council boat. The sea is like a warm bath and the islands picture perfect little Robinson Crusoe dots.

Asia

White Beach, Boracay, and El Nido, Palawan, Philippines

In Asia, I need to mention Thailand (Railay beach in Krabi is probably the nicest) and  Radhanagar Beach in the Andaman Islands is often touted, though I’d give it a seven ( not enough decoration and crocodiles round the corner). But I’m offering the Philippines.  Again, lots of islands, lots of choices. (I should also add Indonesia, the other section of this giant archipelago. It has some amazing reefs and excellent snorkelling.)

El Nido, on Palawan, with its karst scenery is incredible. I’m also going to plump for the most famous beach of them all: White Beach, Boracay. The world-famous crown jewel of the Philippines has four kilometres of that soft powdery sand, an offshore reef, volcanic formations, peaceful sections, everything from luxury to budget accommodation and eye catching sail boats.

Africa

Anse Source D'Argent, La Digue, Seychelles

There are strong contenders in Africa (Sierra Leone, Cape Verde and Cape Town (especially Camps Bay, in South Africa). But The Seychelles are the stand out. Anse Source D'Argent, on La Digue is the picture postcard destination. Pink-tinted sand, crystal clear aquamarine water, and massive etched granite boulders. In a nature reserve, so no hotels, but it’s very famous. Walk further along, to escape the daytrippers,

Europe

The problem with lovely beaches in Europe is that they’re more likely to be packed. Or, in the case of the UK, too windy or wet to be comfortable.  But here’s my top selection:

Portugal

Praia dos Tres Castelos, Portimao, Algarve

There are incredible rock formations along much of Portugal's' Algarve coast. I stayed near here, so I grew to love these, on  Praia dos Tres Castelos beach at Portimao.

Greece

Myrtos Beach, Cephalonia, Ionian Islands and Balos Lagoon, Crete

Greece has hundreds of great beaches. One of the most photographed, but less accessible stretches of sand is Myrtos Beach, on Cephalonia, in the Ionian Islands. West coast Crete has several good choices, all with pink sand and backdrops. Elafonísi in the south is memorable, but not hugely accessible. Long winding road or ferry from Palaiochora, the lovely little holiday town visited by the Greeks.

Further north, Balos Lagoon often appears on 'best of' lists. This is a remote nature reserve (Mediterranean monk seal and loggerhead sea turtles), a giant swimming pool of clear water trapped between the mainland and a rugged rocky peninsula. The sweeping shoreline is a mix of brilliant white and pale-pink sand (crushed seashells and coral fragments, so it's cool), while the open sea just beyond the sandbar drops off into deep, cold indigo water. Visiting here involves a daily ferry boat or navigating a rugged, unpaved dirt track followed by a steep 20-minute cliffside hike down to the shore.

Italy

Sardinia’s Maddalena Archipelago is a good pick. Isolated, picturesque, with sapphire seas, and the nearest Costa Smeralda beaches, though busier, are also gorgeous.

United Kingdom

Porthcurno Beach, in  Cornwall, is hard to beat for surroundings, though it can get crowded. Nearby, but similar, Porthchapel Beach is harder to get to (long track down)  and therefore more peaceful. Durdle Door in Dorset has the scenery (the limestone arch) but also pebbles (and people aplenty). Wales has  some spectacular stretches of sand, like Rhossili Bay (on the Gower Peninsula) or Tenby (four beaches divided by scenic rock formations and a castle). Scotland also (though so weather dependent.) Try Shetland for the ultimate in white powder.

The Americas

North America and South America have some great beaches. But I can’t think of any that aren’t too crowded, or really stand out for me. Rio's famous beaches, Ipanema and Copacabana are only good for people watching. You spend the rest of the time hanging onto your belongings, to stop someone pinching them. Central America has better candidates, like Costa Rica and Manuel Santana ( a chance of seeing sloths and tree frogs too).  

But why consider the mainland when you can go to the Caribbean?  It doesn’t have the lagoons of the South Pacific and the snorkelling is too often disappointing, but, as The Times points out, the islands have atmosphere and some of the scenery is fabulous. Though I’m going to disregard most of their list. I don’t agree that what they have selected is necessarily quiet and certainly not the prettiest.

The British Virgin Islands (BVI)

White Bay, Jost Van Dyke and The Baths, Virgin Gorda

The British Virgin Islands (BVI) are at one of my top selections. The Times says Anegada, which is fine if you just want to dive. I say White Bay on Jost Van Dyke for the loveliest sand and  beach bar atmosphere, or the The Baths, on Virgin Gorda, for possibly the most striking rock formations anywhere.

The Bahamas

Tropic of Cancer, Exuma

The Bahamas aren’t strictly in the Caribbean, but let’s not be pedantic. The Times says outer islands and I heartily agree, Nassau is Cruise Ship Central. They say Abaco, I say Exuma and/or Eleuthera. Tropic of Cancer Beach ( you don't have to be a detective to work out why it's called that) has the most gorgeous, bright and luminous water I’ve ever seen. It is entrancing. And hardly anyone there.

Turks and Caicos

Grace Bay, Providenciales, Caicos

Just across the way, in Turks and Caicos, Grace Bay on Providenciales, has the softest of sand and the water is also incredible. But it is backed by low rise American apartment blocks and it can get busy.

Bermuda

Horseshoe Bay

Bermuda is definitely not in the Caribbean. But its pink sand beaches, like  Horseshoe Bay, framed by jagged limestone, also deserve a special mention.

Best Collection of Beaches?

The island of Anguilla. Drive around and test them all (but don't trust Google). Virtually deserted

Barbuda

With Barbuda in hot pursuit. The beaches here are even quieter and the water is stunning.

I hope that's helped, as I've come to the end for now. Which is just as well, as I'm out of synonyms for blue.