Getting to Nakhchivan

Our again, slightly diminished group of famous explorers, having visited Karabakh, is now heading for the Azerbaijani exclave that is Nakhchivan. Plane is the only practical way to get to Nakhchivan, as the Armenian borders are closed. There's a bus, which travels via Iran (!), or you can come overland from the Turkish side. It's not surprising that Nakhchivan has very few visitors from the west. Our domestic flight, across Armenia, is awful. Cloud the whole way and lots of turbulence. Poor Harry holds my hand and tries to distract me.

There's also some trepidation in regards to Nakhchivan Airport. It was hit by a drone in the early stages of Trump's war on Iran, when there was swift and undisciplined retaliation covering countries all around the region. president Ilham Aliyev had words and there have been no further attacks on Azeri territory. The airport terminal is large and modern, with a repair where the drone came through a skylight. Though the buildings around are older style.

The same applies  to the diminutive and eponymous city of Nakhchivan. This is no chaotic metropolis; instead, think quiet prestige. It is a carefully curated, boutique capital city. Almost everything - from the banks to the bus stops - is neoclassical, solid, heavy stone buildings, faced with glowing (in the sun) local cream-coloured travertine. The streets are unusually wide and exceptionally well-maintained with large public squares, manicured rose gardens, and a lack of the usual typical urban clutter. There's a high concentration of large, imposing government buildings, which look like they were all built by the same hand.

In short, the impression is sturdy, polished, and calm. It feels like a place that has been very recently - and very thoroughly - swept and polished. And it's very welcoming, despite the rain and the poor visibility.

The Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic - A Very Brief History

• The Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic, especially the capital city, has a long history dating back to about 1500 BC and beyond.
• According to local legend, when the great biblical flood receded, Noah’s Ark landed atop nearby Mount Ilandag (also known as Snake Mountain), carving out the defined cleft, seen on the peak today. The prophet and his other passengers lived the rest of their days in this area, and the people of Nakhchivan are their descendants. Hence, Nakchivan is said to be named after Noah. Some scholars say the name Nakhchivan derives from two Armenian terms, which together mean 'place of descent', whilst some Azerbaijanis claim it comes from Nakh (Noah) and chivan (place), in ancient Persian.
• Historically, the Persians, Armenians, Mongols, and Turks competed for the area, introducing Islam. The population is overwhelmingly Muslim, largely Shia, today.
• The area passed to Russia in 1828, and in 1924 it became an autonomous republic of the Soviet Union.
• Nakhchivan became part of independent Azerbaijan, in 1991, the first part of the crumbling Soviet Union to declare its independence, only find itself incorporated into Azerbaijan, a mere fortnight later.
• For 27 years, Nakhchivan was ruled by the authoritarian Vasif Talibov, who served as the Chairman of the Supreme Assembly until his resignation in December 2022. This followed Baku's moves to drastically curtail the region's autonomy and placing the local cabinet under the direct authority of the Azerbaijani president. New arrangemnts came into being, very recently indeed, President Ilham Aliyev approved amendments to Nakhchivan’s constitution, n 10 March 2026.

Exploring Nakhchivan City

Back on the bus to explore the historical monuments of Nakhchivan city. The Back of the Coach Mafia are now very well ensconced. They're a bit much for Jala, the very pretty 18 year old assistant guide, who appoints me as her mentor and insists on sitting next to me all the time.

The Nakhchivan Khan Palace

The Nakhchivan Khan Palace dates to 1787, built by Kalbali Khan Kangarli, when the region was divided into Khans. Two storeys high, with eight rooms and a basement, it's unsurprisingly very Persianate, ornate with stained glass windows and a mirror lined chamber. It reminds me of the Shah's Palace in Tehran. The restored building has had several incarnations, most recently, as a carpet museum. There's also an outdoor archaeological museum area.

The Momine Khatun Mausoleum

The Momine Khatun Mausoleum is also right next door to the Khan Palace. This is a twelfth-century (1186) decagonal brick tower, decorated with turquoise tiles and Kufic script, built in honour of the wife of an Ildenizid ruler. It's been restored at the top, it's height reduced form 34 metres to 25, in the process. It's raining too hard to spend much time admiring this gem of eastern architecture and besides, there are more mausoleums to come.

Nakhchivan Fortress

In the south east of the city, Nakhchivan Fortress (or Yezidabad Castle) is an ancient, partially restored seventh-century fortification in the south-eastern part of Nakhchivan City, Azerbaijan. It's mainly restored walls, surrounding a museum of archaeological finds, and local history, making it a prominent historical landmark in the capital. There are tents and stalls scattered around the compound, but it's deserted and we are chased out. It's closed today.

The Heydar Mosque Complex

Opposite the fortress is the new Heydar Mosque Complex, inaugurated in 2023. This is suitably impressive, one of the largest mosques in the South Caucasus, capable of accommodating up to 5,000 people. We wait in the drizzle, for someone to open the door, so we can look inside and take pictures of the magnificent dome.

The Tomb of Noah

This is the Land of Noah, so the highlight has to be the Tomb of Noah, sandwiched between the fortress and the mosque. Jala, giving her maiden speech is quite happy to acknowledge that Noah's burial place also exists in at least five other countries. He's said to have been deposited at the bottom of a well type structure. Although it's also thought that the Soviets might have moved him. Naturally, no-one is going to look, to check. There are exhibits and a tiny model ark, inside. Outside, great views, out to the Aras River and its floodplain, framed by mountains, would be even better if it wasn't for the clouds, but the rain creates nice reflections, on the tiles.

Garabaghlar

North to Garabaghlar, almost half way to one of the extremities of this mini republic. Here we have the mausoleum of Koday Hatun, wife of the Khanate ruler Abaka, son of Genghis Khan's grandson. Also partially restored, this one is 30 metres high and has a cylindrical form with twelve semi-circular facets. Ornate and Uzbekistan like, the  tomb is dated 1376-1377 and stands with a mosque and a double minareted crown gate. There was once a a large village here, now only these remains survive.

The Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic - Facts and Factoids

• The Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic (Naxçıvan) is the world’s largest landlocked exclave. It is part of the Republic of Azerbaijan and covers some 2,124.62 square miles. That's about the same size as the UK county of Norfolk. Maximum length 96 miles, maximum width about 40 miles. It takes just over two hours to drive between the two furthest points, from Sadarak in the northwest, to Ordubad in the southeast.
• It is bordered by Armenia to the east and north, Iran to the southwest, and Türkiye to the northwest.
• It is the sole autonomous republic of Azerbaijan, governed by its own elected legislature.
• Nakhchivan has a population of just under half a million
• Nakchivan is mostly mountainous (the Lesser Caucasus), except for a plain in the west and southwest and lies to the east and north of the middle Aras River, which forms the frontier with Iran and Türkiye and subject to earthquakes. (The last bad one was in 1931.)
• Azerbaijanis constitute virtually the entire population, though there are also small numbers of Armenians and Russians.
• Agriculture, the principal economic activity, is carried out, with the aid of irrigation in the plains. The most important crops are grains, cotton, tobacco, mulberries and fruit. Sheep raising provides wool for the Azerbaijan carpet industry.
• Nakhchivan has long been a centre for trade, art and intellectual pursuits.

Hotel Saatmeydani

We're staying at what we are assured is the best hotel in town. The Hotel Saatmeydani is certainly opulent enough. Huge colonnaded and lit entertainments area, the Clock Piazza, several restaurants, enormous rooms. There's even a cute cat. It seems churlish to complain that there's no lift. But it gives the Back of the Coach Mafia a chance to show off their muscles, hefting our cases for us.

South Nakhchivan

Our timetable has been rearranged a few times. Yesterday, we were going to the Duzdagh Salt Mines Hospital, but it's full of patients and they can't fit us in. Today, with great sadness, I'm dipping out of the visit to the Machu Picchu of the Caucasus. Twelfth century Alinja Fortress was key in defending the area against sieges by Timur. But it stands up 1500 steps and I'm told you can't see much from the bottom. I've begged a photo (thank you Mette), which hasn't done much to help with the FOMO. It looks like a very worthwhile climb, if you're fit.

The Gulustan Dervish Monument

Instead, I've joined a smaller party in a car driven by Elmir to head south. We head for the Iranian border (again), navigating an army checkpoint (don't point your cameras this way) to the banks of the Aras River. This restored mausoleum is considered a Seljuk architectural masterpiece, a 12-faceted prism built of polished red stone, set on a stepped pedestal. There's an underground chamber (crypt) and a tower-like structure above it, that is inaccessible. All Islamic mausoleums it seems, are designed for women or dervishes. Again, the area around the tomb was formerly a thriving settlement.

The nearest town now is Julfa, where we stop to see a monument to the World War II dead.

Daridag Thermal Springs

A few kilometres from the city of Julfa, our next stop is Daridag Arsenic Water Treatment Centre, also known as The Daridag Balneological Hospital. There's been a rapid change of landscape - and now we're astonishingly (for such a small place) in semi desert. The striking colourful bands and jagged ridges in The Daridag Mountains, are famous for their candy cane bands, created by alternating layers of sedimentary rocks oxidized into vibrant reds, yellows, and oranges

The centre is billed as a unique spot for health and relaxation, though the strap line isn't very enticing. Arsenic? Bathing in these waters - strictly regulated by the staff is claimed to help the treatment of many diseases: rheumatism and skin conditions (such as scabies, jaundice and pyoderma), nervous disorders and musculoskeletal diseases.

Although the springs themselves were discovered in the fifteenth century, the health resorts did not follow until the mid-twentieth century. The first sanatorium was built here only in 1978, initially comprising just five baths. It's not open at the moment, though we can go inside and make cups of tea. And there's plenty of sulphurous hot water running (It's 52 degrees Celsius.).

Ordubad

Ordubad is the second largest city of Nakhchivan, edging into the most south-easterly point of the enclave. The sights here are the Geysariyya Museum, showcasing local history and culture in an old caravanserai and the Juma Mosque. This is one of the oldest mosques in Azerbaijan.

Ashabu-Kahf Caves

The return journey to Nakhchivan includes the Ashab-al-Kahf sanctuary, a revered pilgrimage site, in the mountains. It features a natural cave, a mosque, and holy water drops (Damcikhana) and is associated with the 'Seven Sleepers' story in the Quran. But so are sites in Jordan and Ephesus. The site involves a walk up to the cave, offering stunning views of the surrounding landscape, and many more steps.

As the rain clears, we're rewarded with panoramas of the rust coloured and snow capped Lesser Caucasus Mountains. Apricot trees in blossom come into their own against blue skies. Snake Mountain repeatedly raises its lonely head. No-one has ever seen a snake there. Later, from the city, There are glimpses of snow covered Mount Ararat, (Ağrı Dağı), the highest peak in Türkiye. That's where the Bible says that Noah's Ark landed.

Eating in Nakhchivan

Time for a final, late lunch in Nakchivan city. This time it's a restaurant with a garden and photo opportunities. Yesterday, lunch (spiced pumpkin soup and mezze) was a triumph. There was even a delightful toilet to add to my photo collection - with a golden pan, no less. Dinner in a restaurant next to beautifully illuminated bridge.

Reflections

Nakchivan has become a self sustaining, self efficient and organically minded republic. As a result of Armenian blockade's during the Nagorno-Karabakh War it has learned to feed itself and feed itself well, with organic food. I've read that the streets' extraordinary cleanliness is due to volunteer work done by the exclave’s public-sector employees, on their days off. That's not all, the people are also encouraged to plant trees, when they’re not working or sweeping up the streets. I've also read that this 'voluntary work' (or subbotnik as it was known in Soviet times) is actually compulsory. It goes with the job. This despite the soaring GDP, a result of Baku's oil money. It's an enigma. Now the rulers of this exclave have had their wings clipped by Baku (is this still an autonomous republic?), perhaps more visitors will get a chance to enjoy this pristine land and decide for themselves.

On the flight back to Baku (which is much smoother) Nakchivan teacher Anna, interrogates me about my trip and feeds me more Nowruz goodies.

Read more about Azerbaijan here.